Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I am working on a Valjoux 72 and can‘t really solve the following problem: After a complete disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly with correct lubrication I get the following results on the timegrapher:

Dial down: 320 degree

Dial up: 340 degree, sometimes starting knocking

 

Knocking at such high amplitude is no surprise, but why the high difference between DU and DD? I already checked the balance pivots, both clean and identical in shape. I also checked both incas, no jewel damage, clean and well lubricated (diameter of oil drop identical). The hairspring runs flat and doesn‘t touch anything.

 

So what could it be? Any help welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

Posted

How much endplay there is at the pallet and escape wheel? Between DD and DU even a small change in the area the pallet stones present to the escape teeth can introduce variances. 

  • Like 4
Posted
10 hours ago, Delgetti said:

So I am working on a Valjoux 72 and can‘t really solve the following problem: After a complete disassembly, cleaning and re-assembly with correct lubrication I get the following results on the timegrapher:

Dial down: 320 degree

Dial up: 340 degree, sometimes starting knocking

What were your readings before disassembly?

Posted

That's a lot of amplitude. I wonder if it has the correct mainspring; the 72 should have a spring 0.14mm thick. I've gotten replacements from suppliers in little packages marked V72 that were 0.15+, and had the watch rebanking.

 

Otherwise, lots of little things can cause a 20 degree difference in amplitude in the horizontal positions. As JDM and Joe say, check your endshakes. If they are excessive you can have things lining up differently enough between the two positions that you get what you're seeing. Another thing that can happen is a microscopic bit of dirt can find its way to the tip of the balance pivot and act like a ball bearing, giving you more amplitude. That is usually a problem with flatter pivots. Then just small variations in pivot shape can have an effect, and cap jewels can look fine until really closely inspected and you find that there is in fact a small bit of wear.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks for the replies so far. To give some information: Amplitude before strip down was 270 DD and DU but for the complete watch. The current 320/340 reading is just for the base movement, so I hope the additional friction of the wheels to come ( especially hour wheel with washer) will bring the thing into the non-knocking-area. I didn‘t replace the mainspring ( should do it on a chrono, i know, shame on me).

Hope to find some hours at the bench tomorrow, will check endshakes and the plate side balance bearing. 

Posted

I finally made it. No endshake issue, but a very tiny piece of dust on the escape wheel jewel. I have to improve cleanliness at the bench I think. Once again thank you for your help.

Posted

Good you solved this. Dust is in the air... we had a thread on possible ways to alleviate the problem in a small shop or at home.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • …it’s a very clean look done very well. Thanks for sharing…and may I inquire what’s on the bench behind?
    • Thanks for the information, its a big help. I'll try and pull off the pipe. I think I'll try using the Presto hand remover. Then I guess I'll try to fit the pipe into the hands(?) though maybe I won't have to as I'm putting a new set of hands on the movement. 
    • One of the problems with chronograph hands and whoever manufactured the watch would be that often times they are put on with considerable force. The problem with the amount of force they go on with is that often times when removed they disintegrate. So disintegrating hands unfortunately is quite common on a chronograph. With those lucky enough to have an account with were be authorized by whoever made the watch or the service center they would have a complete package of hands. so yes that does look like the brass tube of the hand that disintegrated.  
    • The unfortunate problem of the three jar cleaning machine. At least I assume it's a three jar machine. Classically with three jar machine the first is a cleaner and the second to be a rinse of the same type. Cleaning is a interesting process and it's not exactly cleaning and rinsed the entire procedure is cleaning. The cleaner is supposed to have chemicals to put things in the solution and things to make things right and shiny. The rinse continues to put things in solution and reduces the concentration of things in the fluid on the plates. Ideally you should have two rinses not one and alcohol. If you look at the modern cleaning machines you find typically now they will have a minimum of four jars or whatever. Often times the last one will have alcohol because depending upon where you live the rinse itself may not evaporate. So you have a final rinse of alcohol just to rinse off the rinse. Then the only thing I've ever seen on baskets would be this quoted below from something Omega has. But they are assuming that you have genuine Elma baskets and not a machine made in India from unknown materials. Although a lot of people are using the baskets from India I just don't know enough about them. Personally I've see in the baskets for other machines especially the holder which would be as it's implied below nickel plated where the plating wears off and eventually the brass will be etched away from the chemicals in the cleaning product. One thing I didn't see you mention was how long in the each of the baths? Usually for the cleaning products that make things bright and shiny. Time-limited approximately 4 minutes works really well. The rinses of less of concern it depends upon how much the cleaning fluid is dissolved in it though. You can download the specifications the cleaning products I like they have recommended times the final alcohol rinse is supposed to be relatively short as any time we mention alcohol and watches people get excited over dissolving the shellac. But typically with isopropyl alcohol it takes a little while longer and I've even used alcohol which I know dissolves shellac but I was just using it to rinse off the rinse so it was never a problem.  
    • I think i am done. I was working withe two pieces, one was 316 SS and the other 304 SS. The starting material for 304 was thinner, so I opted for finishing it. Since I only have images of one of these watches, I cannot know the exact dimensions. The owner is not critical...just wants a working solution. I think this is it. It was quite the challenge to turn the inside  locking rim. An inside angle cut. Had to be damn close in order to have a snap fit. Frankly I think I just got lucky. Sometimes lucky is better than smart! The inside edge that interfaces with the crystal is an interference fit. This was on purpose in case my locking-edge cut was overshot...then the bezel and crystal would work together to stay put. Tens of hours working on this, and I learned a lot!    
×
×
  • Create New...