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Rolex 3035 after coa issue


Yallabye

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Hey guys, so I’m having a problem with potentially the balance and or escape wheel. Did a complete coa on this movement. Also replaced the upper escape wheel jewel/spring/setting. Now the watch runs but, on the vibrograph shows a lot of time loss. When I press down lightly on the balance bridge a bit it stops, and have to turn it to get it going again. Been stressing me out. Checked all the pivots and jewels and everything seems fine. Any and all info would be very much appreciated!

Edited by Yallabye
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Since you replaced that upper (in the plate?) shock setting you probably pressed it too far and now you have no end shake at all. You need a tiny bit of shake there. Less than the train, but more than zero. 

Was it a Rolex part, or generic?

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30 minutes ago, Tudor said:

Since you replaced that upper (in the plate?) shock setting you probably pressed it too far and now you have no end shake at all. You need a tiny bit of shake there. Less than the train, but more than zero. 

Was it a Rolex part, or generic?

There is a bit of endshake. Is it supposed to be flush on the underside or have a very tiny bit of lippage? It is all genuine. 

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45 minutes ago, Yallabye said:

. When I press down lightly on the balance bridge a bit it stops, and have to turn it to get it going again. 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

You beat me to it, while I was compsing. fast typer.

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25 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

Sorry can you please explain what the cock screw is and “shelac keepin pallets” 

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2 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Sorry can you please explain what the cock screw is and “shelac keepin pallets” 

Cock screw is the one that holds the cock down on mainplate, in cases you suspect end stones might be pushing on pivot end( no or very little end shake) you can releive such possible pressure on end stones by loosening the said screw, if the are no end stones, the jewel itself can be pushing on shoulder seat of the pivot.

Shelac is the stuff that acts like glue but wont hurt the base metal over time, it is used on fork pallets jewels to keep them from moving in fork slot, nearly all petrolium base cleaning solutions dissolve shelac rendering pallet jewels loose to move in the fork slot, which ruins escapement at the pallets and can be a cause for a host of escapement disfunctions.

 

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7 hours ago, Yallabye said:

There is a bit of endshake. Is it supposed to be flush on the underside or have a very tiny bit of lippage? It is all genuine. 

The amount of exposure doesn’t matter- the end shake does. Try Joe’s idea of loosening the cock screw and see if things improve. If so, you may need to press the setting out a hair. 

Did you happen to do any hair spring work? At rest, is the roller in line with the pallet fork (straight line between balance pivot, fork and escape wheel)?

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15 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

 

So you got some or little endshake,  just as a test: loosen cock screw 1.5 turn see if oscil speeds up.

 Do you see any shelac keepin pallets put? 

 

 

Ok so Adjusting the cock screw did help a lot but it is still about 1 minute 45secs losing still. I am going to press out the upper escape wheel setting and see if that makes it better, I’m hoping 

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17 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Also replaced the upper escape wheel jewel/spring/setting

out of curiosity why did you replace the entire setting?

13 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Cock screw is the one that holds the cock down on mainplate, in cases you suspect end stones might be pushing on pivot end( no or very little end shake) you can releive such possible pressure on end stones by loosening the said screw, if the are no end stones, the jewel itself can be pushing on shoulder seat of the pivot.

normally the above answer would be fine except this is a Rolex watch. Rolex is obsessed with end shake so often times they will have procedures to make that adjustment easily especially on the balance bridge.  rather than explaining the procedure I'm attaching a section out of the manual. You'll notice there's a screw specific for adjusting the end shake. If somebody had zero idea what that screw was for an rotated it that would be the problem.

Rolex 3035 regulating screw for balance bridge.JPG

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49 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

out of curiosity why did you replace the entire setting?

normally the above answer would be fine except this is a Rolex watch. Rolex is obsessed with end shake so often times they will have procedures to make that adjustment easily especially on the balance bridge.  rather than explaining the procedure I'm attaching a section out of the manual. You'll notice there's a screw specific for adjusting the end shake. If somebody had zero idea what that screw was for an rotated it that would be the problem.

Rolex 3035 regulating screw for balance bridge.JPG

I replaced the entire setting partly because I was lazy of replacing just the spring itself because whoever worked on it before had broke half of the spring and left it like that so I decided it was easier just to replace the whole thing instead.

 

I adjust the regulating screw for the balance bridge, and also pushed the setting  in a bit more so the escape wheel has less endshake and seemed to make a huge difference. Within 10 secs.

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2 hours ago, Yallabye said:

Ok so Adjusting the cock screw did help a lot but it is still about 1 minute 45secs losing still. I am going to press out the upper escape wheel setting and see if that makes it better, I’m hoping 

Checking end shake on escape arbour will suffice. You would get zero end shake, if end stones are pushing on escape pivots.

Removal of end stones so to leave escape arbour unbound might create new problem, that is; you want escape wheel and fork pallet jewels level (both in same plane).

You have high percision gears in this piece, so power transfer through out the gear train should feel effortless. 

 Thanks to john's post which shows the design provides an end shake adjustment screw.

Good luck.

 

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