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Posted

I have been watching Mark's video's for a while now, and a couple months ago I decided to get into watch repair.  I bought a watch lot on ebay that among many cheap quartz watches, had about a dozen automatics.  Most of these turned out to be old Swiss watches that did not have jewels, just metal pins.  Also, none of them were running off the bat.  I spent a great deal of time working on each of these.  Some I just messed up through honest mistake, but I could never get any of them running well and I suspect it is because they all had issues that I was not prepared to fix.

I have begun a second tactic.  I bought a lot of 100 automatic movements (just the movements) off of ebay and I am not going through them and working.  I finally had a great success with the first one I worked on which was already working before I began.  The next movement I pulled out of the box does not work, but it does have jewels in it.  I am wondering if I should even bother working on ones that don't already work.  I am worried that without a few more "wins" under my belt I am just going to lose the fire I need to push through this initial phase of learning.  Does anyone have suggestions one what movements to work on and how to scale them up in difficulty so I have a good learning curve?

Thanks.

Posted

With someone of very little knowledge I always advise them to start with a pocket watch movement. The movements are very similar to a watch movement but much bigger. Just practice on taking it apart and putting it together, get to know how parts work, what they do. Learn the names of the parts. This will help you to get used to working with tweezers, watchmakers screwdrivers and using an eye glass.

If you want to start with watches. A gents watch movement is best a large one, a pin pallet to start, then a gents jeweled movement. Then one that as a date, then day and date, then basic ladies movement, then the same as the stages as the gents. When you are combatant in those you can move onto gents automatic in the same way as before in stages.  Then the ladies autos. Finally you will be ready for the complicated ones such as gents complicated such as stop and Chronograph watches.  

About pocket watches do not start or attempted fusee pocket watches they are very different in there working.  

Posted (edited)

You don't need to buy a lot. Just buy one/two cheap swiss (and working or at least in decent shape) vintage watches and practice assembly/disassembly and servicing (oiling and cleaning). Once you get the hang of it, you could continue to other challenges. Usually when practicing you'd probably damage/lose part in one or both of them but thats part of the game. Watchmaking is not for the faint of heart ?

Edited by Rafael
Posted

I would suggest keeping the 100 movement watch lot for practice. Especially for risky, high level of difficulty stuff like tweaking hairsprings, balance staff replacements, repivoting... etc.

They are also good for donor parts like click springs, incablocs, screws, jewels...

Posted

You have done alright so far, all right except the fear to loose fire or fuel etc. 

I ruine the cheap ones first to qualify for watch destruction level, never met a master watchmaker who hadn't completed watch destruction course, its practically a prerequisit.

 

 

Posted

The Advice you have already given is all relavent but the main thing is that omelettes are not made without breaking eggs and rest assured, we have all broken a few along the way. It is the natural progression of learning. Take heart that with every one you fix and get running is yet another step forward, It doesn't need to be running at chronometer grade spec but its running and its a success.

Each attempt good or bad is a learning curve and as long as you learn that's the thing. You are not alone the members on the site are sat on your shoulders so any problems just ask there are many members and professional's to guide you.    we wish you well and good luck with your endeavour.

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