Jump to content

opening a mido oceanstar


gary17

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i have a mido oceanstar pwerwind watch,which i bought without the glass. Now i come to look at it i cannot get the movement out. I have removed the split crown stem but around the top of the watch were the  dial meets watch case there is either remains of a plastic glass that has been snapped out or some kind of glue. (see pics). I have read that these early midos were rubber sealed in side to make em water tight.

So is it worth chipping all this plastic or glue away to remove the movement or is this watch to far gone. 

Would it be worth my while and time to replace the gasket and glass (presuming i can remove it.)

I cannot look up the parts as i cannot get inside to see the caliber, though i have read its a AS movement made especially for mido.

Any hints, or anyone or anyone who knows this watch your help would be appreciated.

cheers

gary

IMG_20201026_213216.jpg

IMG_20201026_213221.jpg

IMG_20201026_213227.jpg

IMG_20201026_213238.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what it looks like in your pics I would say that it is the rim of the old crystal that has been left behind when the crystal broke. I have had several watches where the crystyal has failed in this manner and you will need to remove it before you can fit the replacement.

It's also worth a close look at the case to see if it has a removable bezel. If it does then that will need to come off before you can remove the movement, and it may make it easier to remove the remnants of the old crystal. It's not easy to see from your photos though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, gary17 said:

pair of tweezers and a lot of force

 

On 10/26/2020 at 3:21 PM, wudce said:

I think you have to remove the crystal first which I think there a tool for that, then turn the crown so the word MIDO is straight and then turn the case over and the movement should drops out

notice two separate answers. I would look really carefully at your split stem both parts to make sure they look like they will function again. The last time I saw this was at work the other watchmaker did exactly what you did. then discovered that it no longer functioned properly. Attempted to fix the problem by closing the female part to get more grip. But as this is not how this was meant to function at least the one we had maybe you'll be lucky it broke.

not all split stems are meant to come apart by pulling a really really hard. Some are meant to remove the crystal and just slide the movement out. If you're lucky yours was the kind to pull out. I'm the skip over why it took us an entire year to fix the problem. Just a reminder not everything comes apart with force. Or for that matter is attempting to close the female part with force wasn't the option either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yea a have given it a full service this movement is chinese 2813 whats the left angle for this movement does anyone knows  and how  do a remove the default  of 52 degrees on my timegrapher?
    • Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com   Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it would be more correct to think of epilame as a binder rather than a repellant. Until convinced otherwise that's how I will think of epilame.
    • I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...