Jump to content

Seiko 5 tools


Darrel22

Recommended Posts

Are you talking about a 7S26 or 36 movement (A or B version) Then that is a cross headed screw. There's a tool for it but I use a cross headed screw driver, I think it's a 1 mm, and it works fine for me.

 

Edited by aac58
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, aac58 said:

Are you talking about a 7S26 or 36 movement (A or B version) Then there's that is a cross headed screew. There's a tool for it but I use a cross headed screew driver, I thin it's a 1 mm, and works fine for me.

 

yes its the 7s26   i have tried a 0.6mm i think its to damaged , i don't think its going to come out with any screw driver , 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If that is a specifically Made-by-Seiko screwdriver, then I have a toolbox drawer full of Made-by-Seiko precision screwdrivers that for all of the flat and phillips head screwdrivers that I have, probably only cost a bit more than that one on it's own.

I do not think that is a Made-by-Seiko screwdriver for a second.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Michael1962 said:

If that is a specifically Made-by-Seiko screwdriver, then I have a toolbox drawer full of Made-by-Seiko precision screwdrivers that for all of the flat and phillips head screwdrivers that I have, probably only cost a bit more than that one on it's own.

I do not think that is a Made-by-Seiko screwdriver for a second.

Yes it's a 0,98 mm crosshead screwdriver made by Seiko for 7S26/7S36 movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, aac58 said:

Yes it's a 0,98 mm crosshead screwdriver made by Seiko for 7S26/7S36 movements.

I believe that the key point is that they are neither Pozi drive nor Phillips cross heads, but are JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screws.

I wouldn't comment on who makes them but Seiko markets a JIS screwdriver to fit which will be a better match than Phillips or Pozi drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Marc said:

I wouldn't comment on who makes them but Seiko markets a JIS screwdriver to fit which will be a better match than Phillips or Pozi drive.

Also the Swiss do sell one, and in the end any properly dressed flat driver will work too. With very small screws, very little torque is involved.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued there and cant find it on Google. Is there a way out to join the ends? Or an alternative movement to source parts from? 
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...