Jump to content

Mainspring GR code


TibiV

Recommended Posts

Hello,

 

If someone can help with a GR code , on Cousins UK those books are obsolete and no more available to buy, or if you know another website to determine this code for a broken mainspring

Dimensions are 1,3 - 0,2 - 270 - 9 in mm  and has a hole so TR - those dimensions cannot find on Cousins, so any ideas will be welcome.

It's for an PP for ladies , beautiful watch.

Thank you in advance,

Stay healthy

 

BR

Tibi V sr 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, TibiV said:

Dimensions are 1,3 - 0,2 - 270 - 9 in mm  and has a hole so TR - those dimensions cannot find on Cousins, so any ideas will be welcome.

I was reading this again and there is no way a .2 strength, 270mm long MS fits into a 9mm barrell. Beside .2 is way too strong especially for a ladie's. That before considering that the smaller height GR lists for holed end is 1.5. So you should measure it again. 

Woops  Nickel "fast fingers" Silver beated me on the finish line!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

It'a PP , way out of normal range, good idea I will do the measurements again.

It's first time to change a mainspring

First service was made in 1953

Thank you for advice

I never saw something like this , I will attach some photos as soon I will have time, I hope you will enjoy it.

BR

Tibi V sr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a couple of things-

PP I'm guessing is Patek. This is going to be a delicate watch, balance pivots are likely 0.06mm or so. For that age of watch it may or may not have shock protection, either way you'll be dealing with some tiny parts. Hairspring will be very very fragile. Be very careful especially if you don't have a lot of experience on very small pieces already.

The mainspring, having a hole end, will also have a "T", either as part of the spring (attached) or as a separate piece. Don't try to use a hole end spring without the T, the spring will almost certainly pull off the hook and/or damage the hook. A modern tongue end spring will work though.

For ballpark thickness you can take the ligne size and make that hundredths of a mm. 7 ligne watch, 0.07mm spring. 10 ligne, 0.10mm. It's a rough guide but you can see that 0.2mm would be about a 20 ligne watch, haha.

Also, be careful.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm, that's what was in there? What's the movement diameter? 0.12 is still pretty strong for anything I'd call a "ladies" movement. For example a Peseux 7001, at 10.5"' takes a 0.11 or 0.12 depending where you look, but at 21,600 does need a bit more power. A typical 10"' LeCoultre from the same period as your patek takes a 0.10 or sometimes even thinner. These are what would be considered smaller mens movements.

 

On edit- Ah, ok, you actually have a barrel with a 9mm inside diameter? Ok that's not what would typically be called a ladies movement even if in a ladies watch. The one you just posted coud work but it's anyone's guess if the T from a Waltham spring lines up.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any.
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
×
×
  • Create New...