Jump to content

Jig or punch base attachment advice


Recommended Posts

ive got this nice little swiss movement made for another bulova im working on.  Actually both bulovas im working have this cam.

When i looked up online to find a spec sheet with mainspring dimensions i stumbled apon a page of a guy who disassebled the watch for cleaning.

During the cleaning he removed the cam, once clean he lubed the arbor before reassembly.  Id like suggestions as to what type of punch base attachment or jig would be successful?? Its gonna have to be tapped off somehow.

Or do i simply clean the part as is and lube tge base and top with pin oilers??

20200729_142946.jpg

20200729_142729.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never take that apart. You will never get it together and have it at the correct tension. Clean it in your watch cleaner (if you have one) oil it. If by chance it doesn't carry the hands around it is because it has worn and become loose. Re place is the best. Only an experienced repairer would attempt to tighten this. It has to be the same tension all around, if not the hands will not carry.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do take them apart, but they're tricky. I have a special tool made by Star decades ago but alas 19/20 it doesn't fit. I slide nickel tweezers between the upper and lower pinion, and push on the pivot with the tail end of another nickel tweezer. A Platax tool would work too (about the only good it's for in my opinion).

If you clean it assembled, put some good thick oil like HP1300 at the seam, hold the upper pinion with nickel or brass tweezers and turn the wheel so it works in. Do it a couple of times, then remove any remaining oil with pithwood. If it's not lubricated it will fail and then you have a bigger job on your hands.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another bit of advice: be careful if you use a water based cleaner and don’t dry it properly as this is the sort of part that would need heat to bake the moisture out. 
 

I’d possibly be tempted to just clean it and re-oil, unless you have access to spares. As per conventional canon pinions, do not leave it unlubricated, even if it feels “right” as it will inevitably begin to bind over time and possibly seize entirely. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • No idea Rich, but for your own sake please avoid inhaling the fumes.
    • I would try the vapour treatment very simple just a simmering pot of the stuff and jewels bluetacked ( not whitetacked this time, you still haven't said if I'm forgiven yet 🙂 ) to the underside of the lid. You're now gonna tell me that stearic acid can be highly explosive above 90° C 🤣
    • I guess it also depends on the precision and quality of the watch. He works on vintage watches mainly and surface treatments on 50 - 60 year old watches probably isn't going to make much difference. I read about nano coatings for car finishes. The article claims that nano coatings can reduced the coefficient of drag by 5%. Is that number significant? I don't know. Maybe if you were trying to break the land speed record. But applying that on a 50 year old clunker isn't going to make it go any faster, accelerate better or save on petrol. 🤣
    • 😅 yep certainly overdid it , i wasn't sure if i had enough heat so i went out and left it cooking. You can see the thick frosting, bit like my cherry buns.
    • 5 hours! You have slow cooked it! It must be really tender by now. @nickelsilver posted about his Greiner machine a while back. It had a heated chamber of stearic acid to epilame jewels and it only took 60 seconds. I've tried stearic acid dissolved in ethanol with a flake of shellac. I'm not really convinced by my test results. I conducted a side by side test by coating a mirror with a stripe of stearic acid and putting several drops of 9010 on the treated surface and untreated surface and observed it for several days. The 9010 spread out about the same for both the treated and untreated surfaces. I spoke with my mentor recently regarding epilame and lubricating pallet jewels. He has stopped doing both because he finds no significant improvements to the end result.
×
×
  • Create New...