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By Terrinecold · Posted
No family heirloom so no pressure. I have a watch I would like to be able to service which I own the Seiko Brightz SAGN011 with the 4S27 movemnet I talked about in another topic. It is a pretty complicated watch and the only place which used to agree to service it in Boston is closed. Right now it is out of commission due to a broken bracelet link (which I couldn't find anywhere short of buying the same watch). I'd like to be able to service it but I won't touch it until I am pretty confident. Right now buying broken watches on eBay and hoping to fix them is a bit out of my league I am still at hoping not to break perfectly working movements. I did points 1,2,3 and 5 quite a bit. Not yet the 4. I'll see when I feel confident enough to work on movements costing several hundred dollars. I also read a lot of bad press about Chinese movement and I agree I have very little experience but I have to say I like the ST36 a lot and the video I saw don't really show that it is true for instance what you have below. For instance I keep hearing how Chinese movement come with no lubrication or bad one. That wasn't the case for the 3 ST36 I looked at. It is true on the other hand that I saw a huge quality difference between the ST36 and either DG2813 or 2650G. I haven't played with the NH35 yet but I know I don't like the Miyota movements though. That definitely helps and I shall for sure look at the video and maybe buy a few. The looks are not all to my taste but to work on it doesn't really matter and starting with a running watch with a reasonable investment is great. Disassembly was done during lunch break 30mn almost no incident, the only thing is I forgot to remove the tension from the setting lever jumper before undoing the setting lever screw so the setting lever was ejected from the underside of the movement (but just under the holder and nothing broken). I am climbing this evening so I won't get to cleaning till at least tomorrow but I may get a chance to upload the video -
By rjenkinsgb · Posted
Thanks for the extra info. The Omega docs seem a bit inconsistent with some parts! I found a Swiss parts supplier with the used 1010-1580 at a far more reasonable price that the ebay ones; I just hope it's in decent condition when it arrives! -
By rjenkinsgb · Posted
There is visibly a circular plate spring where the bezel fits, that appears to just lift out once the bezel is off? It looks like there are holes or recesses under that, which may contain the supposed screws??? -
Hi Stuart. I trust you're well. Sorry to start up an old thread, but I am interest in how you did the extender for the Brenray? What did you do. Did you take a steel/alumium rod and added the appropriate threading? What's the length did you choose? What was your procedure? Got clearer pictures of it? Please kindly advise. Thank you! -
By LazyTimegrapher · Posted
As far as my watch repairing plans go, I think I’ll buy some cheaper watches and/or watch movements to practice on. Probably the recommended ETA 6498 for the course and an SW200-1 / Invicta diver for practicing on a watch similar to the aquaracer. Given the daily rates for the aquaracer, I suspect it has a standard/base grade of the SW200-1. My long term plan is to buy a top grade SW200-1 movement from Switzerland with the better balance and hairspring and swap that movement into the aquaracer to improve the timekeeping. A movement swap for a nice mechanical probably isn't trivial though, so that’s probably a plan for down the road when the watch needs servicing or when I feel confident enough that I can do the job without destroying the watch. however, if anyone has ideas for how this watch opens I’m interested to hear them.
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