Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 7S26B and a 7S26C apart on my best right now. Both rotors state clearly "TWENTY-ONE JEWELS". With the two main plates side by side, it's impossible to miss the mainspring barrel arbor hole is jeweled on the C main plate, and not on the B. Logically then, there must be an extra jewel elsewhere in the B... Except... I counted it up a half dozen times, then wrote it down because I was clearly missing something... But I just can't find the 21st jewel on the 7S26B. Given the possibilities of Seiko lying or my swiss cheese brain missing something, money is on my own failings... So... What am I missing?

Posted
3 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

I have a 7S26B and a 7S26C apart on my best right now. Both rotors state clearly "TWENTY-ONE JEWELS". With the two main plates side by side, it's impossible to miss the mainspring barrel arbor hole is jeweled on the C main plate, and not on the B. Logically then, there must be an extra jewel elsewhere in the B... Except... I counted it up a half dozen times, then wrote it down because I was clearly missing something... But I just can't find the 21st jewel on the 7S26B. Given the possibilities of Seiko lying or my swiss cheese brain missing something, money is on my own failings... So... What am I missing?

No lie. Have you counted the impulse jewel. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, jdm said:

Have you counted the impulse jewel.

Isn't the impulse jewel common to both movements?

Since the "C" has a jewelled barrel arbor hole which isn't jewelled on the "B", in order for the jewel count to be correct for both movements the "B" must have a jewelled bearing that is not jewelled on the "C".

It would be interesting to see what aspect of the "C" was improved by removing a jewel, even if it just turns out to be the cost of manufacture.

Posted

Is the rotor original?

Could it of been fitted with a new rotor at some point that has the wrong jewel count on it?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Impulse jewel counted on both.

I've owned both since new. The only differences between the rotors are B and C after 7S26. I googled it a bit, and found others also coming up short, and haven't found an answer.

I can't promise any fancy editing or anything, but I'll see about getting some photos up this evening if I don't break myself too badly with today's activities.

Edited by spectre6000
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/7/2020 at 4:47 PM, spectre6000 said:

I googled it a bit, and found others also coming up short, and haven't found an answer.

Winding reduction wheel has 2 holed jewels
Center wheel has 2 holed jewels
3rd and escape have 3 each, 2 holed but only upper side are anti-shock with cap jewels.
Pallet fork have 2, it pivots on 2 more.
Balance has 1, it pivots on (anti-shock) 4 more 
Total 21. 

There are also 23J versions, these have anti-shock for 3rd and escape on small plate.

If you want to know their P/N, check my document

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml


 

Edited by jdm
Posted

 

7 hours ago, jdm said:

2 = Winding reduction wheel has 2 holed jewels
2 = Center wheel has 2 holed jewels
6 = 3rd and escape have 3 each, 2 holed but only upper side are anti-shock with cap jewels.
4 = Pallet fork have 2, it pivots on 2 more.
5 = Balance has 1, it pivots on (anti-shock) 4 more 
Total 21. 19 (I think you counted the "2" in your explanation of the 3rd/escape having cap jewels to get to 21)

I don't have it apart in front of me, but I think the one you're missing is the seconds wheel, which goes through the center wheel, has a jewel on the same axis as the rotor/center wheel on the underside of the threaded post for the rotor. Then the 7S26C adds the jeweled barrel arbor for 21.

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 6/7/2020 at 10:50 AM, Marc said:

It would be interesting to see what aspect of the "C" was improved by removing a jewel, even if it just turns out to be the cost of manufacture.

Answer below.

5 hours ago, spectre6000 said:

Total 21. 19

Sorry, somehow I've killed the line about seconds  (fourth) wheel before posting, and in there lies the explanation.
In A and B version, the center wheel bridge holds two holed jewels. These are described in my document linked above: Center wheel upper hole jewel, and Fourth wheel lower hole jewel, with their respective P/N. Check picture below.

P6211391.JPG.cc51b50dabadb29c5947fe70ba654eeb.JPG

With the C version they cleverly unified these two in a single one, and the bridge got a new P/N, also pictured

P6211392.JPG.519d91eb9b8957581288bc9a89b140ec.JPG

Incidentally, also the 6R15 got identical changes when going from B to C. So to resume:

7S26A and B:
2 - Winding reduction wheel has 2 holed jewels
2 - Center wheel has 2 holed jewels
6 - 3rd and escape have 3 each, 2 holed but only upper side are anti-shock with cap jewels.
2 - 4th (seconds) have 2 holed jewels
4 - Pallet fork have 2, it pivots on 2 more.
5 - Balance has 1, it pivots on (anti-shock) 4 more 
Total 21

7S26C:
2 - Winding reduction wheel has 2 holed jewels
1 - Barrel has 1 holed jewel
2 - Center wheel has 2 holed jewels, of these 1 is shared with the 4th wheel.
6 - 3rd and escape have 3 each, 2 holed but only upper side are anti-shock with cap jewels.
1 - 4th (seconds) has 1 holed jewel,
4 - Pallet fork have 2, it pivots on 2 more.
5 - Balance has 1, it pivots on (anti-shock) 4 more 
Total 21

There are also 23J versions, these have 2 upper cap jewels for 3rd and escape wheels on small plate.

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

So there are two jewels essentially in the same hole with (I assume) identical ODs and different IDs? Fascinating. Definitely did not notice that with them side by side.

That brings me back to my original thought process when I saw the main plate for the C having the jeweled barrel arbor: is it possible to combine parts to make the best of both worlds? It looks like you'd need the center wheel, center wheel bridge, and the seconds wheel (is it still called the fourth wheel when it's not the fourth in the train from the barrel?) from the A/B on the C... I'll have to fiddle around with it next time I'm at the bench. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah I figured that one out when I googled and realized that my spindle is actually from Horia. It's smooth with no screwable cap.
    • I am puzzled by something a snipped out something from your image and what exactly disassemble tell us? my confusion is the symbol for FHF looks like image I have below year symbol as a star and righted this instant are not finding what that means? I suppose we could use the fingerprint system to verify it really is what it claimed to be. Size itself is really interesting there's almost no watches in that particular size. Then were missing details in the photograph above like diameter of movements to verify it really is the size and are missing the setting components.   went to the bestfit book looking at the symbols didn't see it. Look at the link below I did find it back to the bestfit book and yes it really is there https://reference.grail-watch.com/documents/history-of-ebauches-sa/ then bestfit book says lists the size as 10 1/2. one of the problems with vintage watches is finding parts yes a donor watch would be good.
    • Actually, this could be the issue. Drag from the module could be overcoming the cannon pinion. It was definitely not at the point that the driving wheel was loose on the cannon pinion, it took a little bit of effort to rotate it when applying the grease. Maybe I need to look again at applying oil to the pivots.    Yeah, it's very annoying. I don't want to give up on it, so back on with it over again until I catch a break. 
    • The sping is not pushing directly on the cap, but is pushing against the spindle. So, even if the usual black cap is replaced with the micrometer cap, the spindle is still pushed up.
    • But he tells that the micrometer cap doesn't screw into the spindle. How can the spring push the spindle up if there's nothing to grip? There is a screw visible on top of the micrometer cap so should it be able to screw into the spindle? I'm feeling really dumb now. Does anyone manufacture that cap as an aftermarket item? Might be worth investing. Ok so the spindle is different, now I get it.
×
×
  • Create New...