Jump to content

2824-2 beat error correction question

spectre6000
 Share

Recommended Posts

spectre6000 Distinguished Member

spectre6000

Posted
Posted (edited)

I can't tell if all photos on the subject on the entire internet have been disappeared or if my 32kbs "broadband" (yes, that is less than a mid-90s dial up connection, you read that correctly) is breaking them... This is why deregulation is idiotic.

Anyway... Coming soon, I'm going to need to correct some beat error on a 2824-2, and I can't tell from what little text I can find and no photos at all if the arm moves, or if it's regulated by twisting the Etachron stud. I know it's stupid question, but I don't want to open it up just to poke around and see what moves until I'm actually in there cleaning and adjusting, and if I need the etachron tool to make the task bearable, it'd be nice to know in advance. Thanks.

Edited by spectre6000
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

Anyway... Coming soon, I'm going to need to correct some beat error on a 2824-2, and I can't tell from what little text I can find and no photos at all if the arm moves,

Yes it does.

10 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

or if it's regulated by twisting the Etachron stud.

That is to adjust positional error, at least that is the idea.

10 minutes ago, spectre6000 said:

 If I need the etachron tool to make the task bearable.

No need, use tweezers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

Moving the stud holder brings the watch in beat.  ETAchron moves to keep the hairspring centered between the regulator pins which is important for consistent timekeeping. You are also able to close the gap while still keeping the hs centered.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Knebo
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Knebo · Posted

      I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • Waggy
      Setting lever spring

      By Waggy · Posted

      I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Waggy
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Waggy · Posted

      Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
    • Kkramme
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Any other thoughts on how I can get a replacement coil? Any “hidden” or unknown physical shops (in Australia or elsewhere) that might have them in stock (but not always online)?
×
×
  • Create New...