Jump to content

Question - Longines pocket watch extract movement


Recommended Posts

Hello Forum,

This is my new project, to service a 50 years old Longines pocket watch in very nice condition.

I opened the case back but do not understand how I can extract the movement - it might be necessary to open the front but, as you can see from the pictures, it is very slim and I don't see any space where to start opening the front and removing the glass ... so, before messing up I thought aboit looking for advice here :)

Thank you in advance and a happy Sunday to you all 

IMG_3013.jpg

IMG_3016.jpg

IMG_3014.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It comes out from the front. First you need to remove the button and stem by un-screwing the little screw here (see green) It looks like a place here (see red) to insert a case knife here. You need to look around the case and the bezel to see the best place  

IMG_3014.thumb.jpg.b599f7b3da4c1c6e2973100fbc05fa63.jpg

IMG_3016.jpg.247b2eeb21acedb8e05214ab9c117aee.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Made some progress, finished stripping the movement, but have another doubt:

- I wanted to clean and lubricate the mainspring as per Mark's course - however, as you can see in the pics attached, there are some markings in the barrel ("Sealed Unit") so I'm not sure if I should proceed with the "standard" barrel opening, mainspring cleaning and lubricating despite these markings ?

Apologies if it is a dumb question ... and thank you for your help !

ps: as per forum's etiquette is it ok to ask such a different question here on should I start a new thread ?

IMG_3049.jpg

IMG_3050.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is OK to open it and clean. You won't do any harm. Years ago you would just replace it with a new unit, the same thing with old Seiko movements, Seiko recommended you to replace the sealed unit I think every 5 years. These days replacements can't be found so you take it apart and clean the whole unit.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Wear protective gogles when you attempt removing the mainspring.

Wise words, also take note of the direction it is wound in. Preferably with a photo. This will save the irritation of winding it back in, in the wrong direction. Don't ask me how I nkow. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much  @Nucejoe and @AndyHull for your advices, greatly appreciated !

I didn't thought of using protective googles and realized after reading you how foolish it was of me  ! 

And yes, indeed, I'm always struggling to find the correct direction - even with the photos ! :biggrin:

So, basically I managed to open the barrel, clean the mainspring, oil it, rewind it using my mainspring winder ... only to find out that due to the "T" ending it is impossible to correctly replace the mainspring in the barrel ... I've read another thread here where Mark recommends to do it manually - not sure I'm ready (nor able!) yet to do it, so trying to find a new barrel. But it was fun seeing I was able to go through all the steps like in the online lesson :)

Thanks again

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hope you mum keeps on mending. I was adamant that I was going to get myself going after my stroke. I was only 52. I still have a lot of life left to live. Some people give up. Some people don't let it beat them. Your mum sounds like one of the winners. 👍
    • Moved in. Now working out the best place to have things so moving around the room makes sense. The wooden movement testing rig may end up being suspended from the roof with some pulleys and ropes that I salvaged from some alfresco blinds that we replaced. I always seem to salvage things from things we scrap thinking, "I have an idea what I can use these for." I hope I'm not the only one that does that. My wife hates me for it. "What are you going to do with all this crap?" Anyway, here you go. If anyone has suggestions for workflow around a room, speak up. All Ideas are appreciated. The bench on wheels will carry either a laptop or my Samsung table for using with the little camera that is on the tripod for photos while dismantling etc. The small bar fridge in the corners going to have water etc in it and I might move the coffee maker from the kitchen out there as I am the only one that uses it. I want to get an ultrasonic cleaner so I may set up some sort of cleaning rig in front of the glass of the sliding door. Where the grandmother clock is currently standing. I'm hoping that I will be able to transition my working area, which is the table that the stool is sitting in front of, fairly easily between clocks and watches. I'll be doing my best to make sure that tools for each are separatedwhen stored. Logistics. I'll have a bit of wall space for being able to hang clocks if I find some that I wish to keep or hopefully at some time to be able to hang customer clocks for monitoring after servicing/repairs. The clock on the left in the blue pillow slip and the grandmother clock are earmarked for  Jarryd and his wife, Sara. He helped me move the benches in today. And then went on to tell me that ticking clocks drive him nuts. Who doesn't like the rhythmic ticking of a clock? I have a green pad for adding to the bench for a working surface. It is not a cutting mat or one of the Bergeon mats. It is actually a green desk writing mat. Was really cheap and will do exactly what I want, I think. I also have to get the sparkies back that put our new stove in to put some power points on the walls behind the benches. Hopefully this is all going to go well. I'm excited about it. It'll beat having to live out in the garage doing it. The other thing I have to do is cut a circle or square of plastic to go over the bouncing watch or clock part black hole in the middle of the floor. I would pretty much guarantee that anything that sproings off the bench would end up going straight down that drain. 😄      I think I have been on this forum about 4 years and still yet to really strike a blow. That's a bit sad isn't it. Signed up to Mark's watch course and have yet to buy the movement for working on. Have most of the tools I think I will need so now all just a matter of will.  
    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
×
×
  • Create New...