Jump to content

Dial wear and tear


Recommended Posts

Hello, I am new to the forum, and am looking forward to learning from the experiences and expertise held by everyone here, so thanks for having me! 
I have acquired a Rolex Oyster Speedking, circa 1964, that appears to run well. However, I have noticed that there is some wear to the edge of the dial between the 10 and 12 area. It looks to be dry, but wondered if it is a result of staining, moisture or oil from the movement? Also, would it be some that is likely to deteriorate? I have attempted to attach a photo, which is probably the best way to describe my question. Thanks again for your help. Ally

 

B8C530C2-E188-4818-BEE2-46ECEAE1FC0B.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, AllyK83 said:

I have acquired a Rolex Oyster Speedking, circa 1964, that appears to run well.

Even it runs well, not knowing its service history or a least looking on a timegrapher or equivalent application will expose you to the risk that is running on dried oils, that will increase a lot the wear of pivots and stones and may cause expensive repairs at a later time, so if you intend to have it running and preserve its value the best would be to bring it to reputable watchmaker for a full service.

Quote

However, I have noticed that there is some wear to the edge of the dial between the 10 and 12 area. It looks to be dry, but wondered if it is a result of staining, moisture or oil from the movement?

I think it's simply the old base or paint decaying and flaking off. You should check if it is at least stable because having debris around wouldn't be good at all.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, AllyK83 said:

Thanks for the replies and advice. In your opinion, is the dial repairable, without a complete redial being necessary? Thanks 

It all depends when the watch is out of its case. There could be a little flaking that we don't see. I would still say yes. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...