Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I replaced the battery in a Gucci 3000L , after replacing the watch did not work......the next step was to replace the movement, little did not know the movement 978.002 6 jewel, ETA is very hard to find, the replacement is the is the Rhonda 2 hand movement HQ751E...........after looking , and getting advice , i did not buy the replacement , i bought a circuit board, now I am stuck with a board and i need advice on how to fix the circuit board.......... There is a video by Le Arsi, he has an analyzer, is anybody familiar with this watch maker? or his analyzer? 

Here's a video

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Just to clarify because I'm confused?  So you have a movement that you've changed the battery it didn't work. Then you bought a new circuit board which also didn't work? So basically this means that you have one movement and two defective circuit boards?

Then  how do you know it's not a mechanical problem with the watch itself?

Posted

 Good question JohnR, a;ways providing the circuit block was new and a worker. So as you said one movement and 2 x circuit blocks of questionable operation, the movement may as stated be faulty also so at the moment we are in an impasse where we cant verify anthing.   As regards the Le Arsi analysers I have both of them and they are good tools but a bit expensive as a one off to fix one watch.

Le Arsi is a master watch and Clock maker in the Philipines and runs a horological training school he has connections with America and is recognised there for his work.

 

 

Posted

Thanks, where do u purchase the analyser, from Le Arsi.... How expensive are you talking about? well I have one circuit board and the watch did work...... now i have a circuit board that needs fixing.... the problem was not mechanical.......... I like to investigate things, saw the analyser on You tube and thought maybe I could use this machine...... Therefore again how expensive is this machine? 

Posted

I'm with you guys on this....

It's a big leap to deduce that the circuit board is defective without first testing the original!

Posted

Hi   The ronda 751E replaces the eta978.002 and the eta 578.004. although the dial feet may need to be cut off and dial dots used.

The Le Arsi      1168-1NC86  Analyser tester with Led array and audio  cost me 1 year ago the sum of £150       The COL118 tester has no Audio and a led which is used to test the block and the coil. I have had that one for about 3 years and the cost then was around £70.   Contact him on [email protected] regarding prices.  he makes each individual Analyser to order.  look up le arsi watch analyser on google for a full history of the man and his affiliation to i think it was the AWCI. 
in the States.

So what is the situation now ?  a working watch and 1 Duff circuit  or are we still at a watch and 2 Duff circuits.

Posted

I went looking for something else related to the watch and found the link below. Normally replacement movement arts always exactly the same but it looks like this movement was meant to be an exact replacement. As long as the dial feeder in the right place in the thickness is right that should fit the case and if it said it was made to be an exact replacement what have you got to lose.

How do you know if the problem is not mechanical?

 

https://www.esslinger.com/harley-ronda-2-hand-quartz-watch-movement-hq751e-hq978-o-a-3-7mm-to-replace-eta-978-002-and-eta-578-004/

Posted

Some 2 hand movements only receive a pulse to the coil once every 20 seconds. 20 seconds is a very long time when you are waiting for it.

I learnt this the hard way when I bought a higher end replacement movement for a vintage quartz. Paid $250 for it. And the new movement didn't seem to work when I put it on my Chinese made pulse tester.

It was only when I passed this repair to my mentor did he tell me that both the original and new movement are working. :D

Posted

I used  a circuit board that I bought off line( 978.002) installed the circuit board the watch is working perfectly............ I took a gamble........ Now i want to test the old circuit board to see if that was the real problem.........

Posted

this is what i did:

1.   Installed a new battery, put the watch on my tester did not get a pulse, waited 30 secs did not get a beep

2.  Ask my instructor what did he think I should do. He responded by telling me to buy a new movement

3.  Therefore I had already purchased  the circuit board...........replaced the circuit board 

4. The watch works!

I know this not the way to do this but i took a gamble; now i have a circuit board that needs to tested to see if its good , therefore if this happens again i well know how  to test a circuit to see if the coil is bad or some other problem.... How can this be done..........

Posted

 Hi The le Arsi will test the board off the watch. Watch his video on this procedure. Other wise with an analogue meter you can check the board to some extent on the watch, ie   pulses  crystal and the coil if the block is faulty they are epoxy sealed and not repairable.

Posted

thanks for the help!    The Le Arsi, analyzer is on hold do to covid-19. The price  is 188$ for the Le Arsi 1168-1NC86  Analyser tester with Led array and audio 

Posted
5 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi The le Arsi will test the board off the watch. Watch his video on this procedure. Other wise with an analogue meter you can check the board to some extent on the watch, ie   pulses  crystal and the coil if the block is faulty they are epoxy sealed and not repairable.

It's amazing what you can do with basic electronic test equipment. For instance I use a $20 digital volt ohm meter to check coil resistance. Or battery voltage can be checked I'm not usually concerned about doing battery voltage with load testing.

To understand quartz watch testing I've attached a file and a couple of links. The first link is here because I wanted to see a picture of the watch you're working on. You'll notice that conveniently test points have been marked which is more common to find on Swiss watches.

The second link talks about quartz watch theory and a test procedure which I recommend a minor deviation from. The attached file unfortunately is not your watch but similar physical size.

In the attached PDF the first test is checking the battery voltage with the battery in the watch. That is the variation from the witschi's removing the battery and checking it. It's always best if you can check that powers actually getting to the circuit board versus checking the battery out of the watch. 

One test it's missing is checking for impulses because on this particular watch you can't get to the coil leads from the outside. If you can actually get to where the coil leads are an analog meter works really well much better than a digital. I like an analog meter because when it receives the impulse the needle will switch one direction or the other depending upon the polarity. Where digital meters just tend to jump because the pulses too short.

Then for the rest the testing in a little more complicated perhaps. Measure current consumption you need a really sensitive meter typically today everybody is using digital because it's hard to get really sensitive analog meters. Not that they didn't exist At one time Bulova had a really nice meter citizen and Seiko had meters. But finding an analog meter they can read a fraction of a micro amp is challenging today. Then it be really nice to the variable voltage power supply to complete the rest of the tests. You could use the watch battery for at least the current consumption test.

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA-ESA_978_002

 

http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Knowledge Quartz Watch.pdf

ETA_ETA 976.001.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi  It is possible to build a tester using simple electronics. I build one from drawings by Mike Catt It is buil on vero board or strip board (basically the same) and a few components. With this unit you have a variable power supply voltage display and a current consumption element as well.  You need to attach a meter for the current out put.   If Ican locate the web site again I will point you in the direction of it.

The witschi document JohnR supplied is well worth a read if you want to understand quartz watch technology.

Posted

Hi   Further to DIY  variable PSU  The gentlemans name is Martin Catt and the project was " Building a variable powersupply for testing quartz watches." in two parts. When i go into the work shop I will get a picture of the tool in question.. 

Posted

Hi   The white tester is the Martin Catt build,  The one with the meter attached is from Th AWCI  and the other is a mini scope all got for less than £30  apiece the scope comes as a self build kit the other two  are again assembled from others plans/drawings so food for thought.    cheers 

DSCF3342.JPG

DSCF3337.JPG

DSCF3339.JPG

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I used to have a problem repairing quartz watches. Just wiping off the battery juice (electrolyte), cleaning the battery contacts, putting in a new battery and praying that the second hand moves is not good enough. You could have a shorted coil or mechanical problems that result in higher current consumption. This is why sometimes a watch with a new battery only runs for a few months.

You really need to measure the static and dynamic current consumption.

A high static current is usually due to a defective circuit board.

A high dynamic current can be due to restricted movement or a shorted coil.

Posted

Measuring the current consumption of a watch can be difficult and usually involves expensive equipment.

The le arsi tester is an economical way of accomplishing this. It is able to provide a variable power supply and by the sound indicator and LEDs, give an indication of the current consumption.

I was going to buy a le arsi tester but then I discovered that the Bulova Accutron tester that I already owned could do that job too.

Putting an appropriate battery into the battery test clip would also give the correct voltage to power the watch under test. The deflection of the meter will show the current consumption. In this way, the static and dynamic current can be measured.

Accutron testers do come up for sale on ebay occasionally. Sometimes for less than a le arsi tester.

20200328_223006.jpg

Posted

I've attached a picture of  of the variable power supply that I use of my own design. The meter on top is a Seiko meter of course not made by Seiko and citizen also use the same identical meter. Really nice it has a 12 µA full scale can easily read a quarter of a microamp. There is a minor modification though to get stable readings when looking at current going into quartz watch you need a capacitor so I modified an additive toggle switch on the front of the meter to turn that on and off.

Then I found a couple of other links for you first one is the bowl of a meter and a variable voltage power supply. The second one is Building a Variable Voltage Power Supply - Martin Catt.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/accps.htm

http://www.pocketwatchrepair.com/catt/pwr-supply.php

 

 

v-power.jpg

  • Like 3


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I tried pushing to dome the washer in and had no success, but stuffing it full of o-ring gaskets worked much better than I expected. It takes some pressure but not as much as you might imagine, but it does take patience ... and a couple of dozen small gaskets. I used the pendant tube of a watch case to stuff the gaskets in as I didn't have a way to machine a tool to suit.
    • I can't answer your question, sorry, but you probably don't what to transfer the spring to a new wheel. Springs and wheels are paired ("vibrated" together) to get the right timing and transferring the spring to a new wheel is quite likely to see you minutes per day out with no way to correct it. Some may tell you to replace the balance staff, but if you're a beginner you're probably better off sourcing a replacement "balance complete" if you can: staff, roller, wheel and spring already assembled as a unit.
    • I'm sure it's the ancien. My measurements: A = 342. The slight bend in the pivot would make much less than a thousandth of a mm difference to this so I don't think 348 is plausible unless there has been significant wear on the pivots. B is hard to measure without first removing the balance wheel. I measured to the other side of the balance wheel as best I could (263) then subtracted the thickness of the wheel (69) to get 194. This could easily be three or four hundredths out, so 195 looks right. (196 could also be right.) J couldn't be measured. I did my best to measure where the balance wheel has been riveted on and got about 95, so 85 before riveting is plausible. (60 is not.) G again couldn't be measured without first removing the roller. I get 37 where the staff emerges from the roller so 41 at the other end of the taper seems plausible. (43 is also plausible to me.) K = 60. (Definitely larger than 55.)   I've never replaced a balance staff; it'll be a new adventure for me. I'll have to read up on how to maximise my chance of removing the old one without damaging the balance wheel without having access to a lathe. I also need to explore how to remove the roller without damaging it. I won't actually place an order until I've gone through the rest of the movement. With the number of issues I've already found, I'll be amazed if I don't have more surprises in store. There are some watch part suppliers in Australia but nothing like Cousins or Otto Frei or Jules Borel. AllTimeCo is fine for basic parts for modern watches: batteries, bands, some crowns, stems, seals, movements, some tools, etc., but not really anything for vintage watches. Australian Jewellers Supplies is similar. Cousins charges about £9 for shipping to Australia which is about AU$19 and not too bad (considering Australian parcel post is $11) but I still want to minimise the number of times I'm paying it. I need to explore other options closer to home. There may be something in Singapore or China that would have what I want and ship it faster/more economically.  
    • Hi, I just finished the service of a Rolex 3135. Amplitude is great, 295 degrees horizontal after 2 hours and 280 after 12 hours. Vertical positions are 25 degrees down on those. I am however seeing a rate variation with temperature. I have 0 SPD on wrist, say 38 degrees and +7 SPD at 18 degrees room temperature. That equates to +0.35 SPD which is within spec I believe (+-0.5 SPD/ Deg C max). It just seems more than I would expect from such a high quality movement. To put that in context, I see similar rate variation with temperature for a Seiko 7S26. Just wondering what you guys see. Thanks, Steve.
    • For years I've done it the el-cheapo way (read: cleaning by hand). Bought a 2nd Elma S15(H) ultra-sonic, including proper cleaning-fluids (Elma WF Pro (cleaning) & Elma Suprol Pro (rinse)) and entered a complete different cleaning world. These cleaning fluids are none-water based and not that easy to obtain. Initially I bought these fluids in Germany "SKSONIC" (www.sksonic.de) but last year they stopped shipping international. Perhaps they resumed international shipping? You can always ask them. You could also ask @VWatchie, he lives "next-door". As for the fumes; I use the ultra-sonic in my garage, partly for the fumes, but more for our dog ...... he goes "bananas" when I switch on the ultra-sonic. Oh, next on your list (if you consider watch-repair as a long-time hobby), a Microscope (up to 50x is enough).  Pegwood leaves, observed under the microscope that is, whole tree-trunks behind 🫣 Ultra-sonic, in combination with proper cleaning fluids, takes care of the cleaning.
×
×
  • Create New...