Jump to content

Rolex 116610LN randomly stops


CLB521

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Colditz said:

Thanks CLB. As I do like Rolex watches although I prefer Omega coaxial, very frustrating to have a bent balance staff on such a classic watch. Did you see the original bent staff? Was it replaced?  If so the repairer should have shown you the bent one. Did you see it?

The oils drying out would take quite some time as the oils used are of a very high quality. How old is the the watch?

When I viewed Marks strip down of the Rolex GMT master Mark pointed out that the movement had been over oiled. This could be another possible cause for the inetermittent stopping.

I hope you get this sorted. Please keep us posted on developments.

Thanks for the support.  I was not shown the bent balance staff.  I was just told it was bent and replaced.  The watch was purchased from an AD in 2018 and I purchased it in late 2018 from the grey dealer.  I dont believe the oils are dried out.  Not on a watch so new.  Over oiling could be possible and could happen to anyone.

Since I left the local repair ship the watch has been working well.  No stops so far.  He did de-magnetize it which may have fixed it?  Maybe whatever was binding things up loosened when he opened up the watch?  Time will tell if the problem is fixed or not.

I will definitely let everyone know if more problems persist.

Thank you all for your help and advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So once again the watch has stopped around 8:30 at night.  I have pulled out the crown to keep the movement stopped.  I am going to reach out to the dealer and see if he wants to take it back in.  Hoping that by keeping the movement stopped whatever is knocking it loose won't get it moving again. 

I am noticing the watch stops around the same time  (around 8:30 at night or between 7-8 in the morning) so I wonder if a gear at a specific time is causing a problem. Can anyone confirm if any specific gear is regulated or has a 12 or 24 hour single rotation?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1-Stops at 8.30hr or 20.30 or both?

2- If at 20.30 hr, a fault is in at date jump mech. 

3-If at 8.30 fault is at canon pinion and hour wheel.

Hands rubbing is unlikely to be the issue here, since two watchmakers have taken a look at the watch.

Best wishes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, CLB521 said:

So once again the watch has stopped around 8:30 at night. 

That is what I was telling you before. A watch that had stopped once will stop again.

Dry oil (that certainly is not the case here, Rolex uses synthetic oils lasting a minimum of 7 years), or magnetization do not  stop watches.

Do you remember if it was stopping at the same time even before you sent it for repair? Is so, that indicates you have been lied about replacing the balance staff, which is demanding work, never taken easily.

The good news is that there are (few) reputable, independent watchmakers able to repair without overcharging based on you watch brand and price. Then draw you own conclusions.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

If the fault is at canon pinion or hour wheel, it should pick up and go as you advance the hands past the fault. 

I have tried advancing the hands when I the watch is stopped and it does not make a difference to get it running again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, CLB521 said:

I have tried advancing the hands when I the watch is stopped and it does not make a difference to get it running again.

That makes sense. When you advance time with the crown, the gear train will move, because it's firmly stopped (or "hacked"), and the hand wheel move independently thanks to the cannon pinion slipping on the center wheel.
Then what happens is that eventually but randomly, the mainspring force wins over whatever fault and get it ticking again.
Again, if don't trust anymore your seller you should be looking a a reputable watchmaker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So after a few weeks waiting for my dealer's watch repair guy to return, he called me today to say that the local guy did something to the timing which required a full service on the watch.  He said that when he had the watch the first time he did a full service on it as well.  I am getting the watch back tomorrow and hopefully this fix will be permanent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...