Jump to content

A Different Set Up


Marc

Recommended Posts

This is a new one on me.

 

post-73-0-20591600-1421185383_thumb.jpg

 

This is the engine room from an AS1171 bumper auto that I'm working on.

Has anyone else seen or worked on this arrangement before?

Apart from the fact that it is all very dirty (this shot is pre-cleaner) and the mainspring is well and truly set, can anyone spot what is out of the ordinary with the set up?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well spotted George.

 

Like I said, it's from an auto-wind movement, but rather than a slipping bridle on the mainspring to limit the build up of torque when the spring is at full wind, this uses a manual wind spring and barrel, but incorporates a slipping clutch (the domed star shaped washer) to couple the arbor to the ratchet wheel (which has a round hole rather that the normal square hole).

As I said this is a new set up to me and had me scratching my head when it came to dismantling it, and here's the question; how should this be lubricated?

 

After a fair bit of google I have been unable to locate any information on this arrangement, in fact all of the details I can find on the AS1171 show the more usual auto set up.

When I took it apart the whole thing was dripping in oil which can't be right. I have tried a touch of 8213 breaking grease on on the four points of the star and it is just too slippy, although this could be due to my use of a slightly stronger than spec mainspring, and I have tried it dry, but this just results in the balance galloping. This too could be down to the over strong spring so I have the correct spring on order, but if anyone knows what the correct lubrication is for this part it could save me a bit of faff when I install it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct Mark, the ratchet wheel has a circular hole, the domed star washer has a hole with two flats which correspond to two flats on the arbor, the four points of the star washer friction couple to the top of the ratchet wheel. Any thoughts on lubrication?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Marc,

 

I haven't seen this before either but then again, I haven't seen much I guess. :)  In any case, I can't figure out the function of the cross shaped part! I'd love to see a picture of the whole assembly put together.

 

@Geo: very interesting you bike, Geo! I wonder if a picture won't be much to ask? Thanks mate!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Edited by bobm12
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bob,

here you go;

 

post-73-0-45987300-1421254047_thumb.jpg

 

The screw on top is threaded into the top of the arbor and forces the points of the star down onto the ratchet wheel whilst engaging the hole in the star washer (which has flats) with the top of the arbor (also has flats). The ratchet wheel hole is round so there is no direct coupling between the wheel and the arbor. Torque is transferred from the ratchet wheel to the arbor through the friction contacts at the points of the star. When the spring is fully wound the auto wind system continues to turn the ratchet wheel but the friction couplings slip preventing any damage to the winding set up that would otherwise result as the mainspring is fixed to the barrel with no slipping bridle.

 

To dismantle this arrangement you have to immobilise the star washer with heavy tweezers so that you can undo the screw. If you don't hold the star washer the whole thing just spins. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Marc,

 

very interesting and now that I see it somehow in my mind it looks familiar from something I saw many, many years ago (kind of fuzzy in my mind now) It must have been some big chunk of machinery back then (I was a kid). I completely understand it after your perfect picture and explanation.

 

Very much appreciated,

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the bubblebacks.

 

You may have seen this one

 

 

unfortunately it was when I thought it was OK to speed up the footage, the assembly is out of shot sometimes, but it was one of my earlier vids.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
    • Probably easier to get a complete new movement - but CousinsUK list it as discontinued. Maybe someone on here knows a substitute movement ?
    • Any other thoughts on how I can get a replacement coil? Any “hidden” or unknown physical shops (in Australia or elsewhere) that might have them in stock (but not always online)?
×
×
  • Create New...