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How to remove stem from ETA 955.112

VWatchie

By VWatchie
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

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image.thumb.png.1b51637f9decb73a5aeb2c8d0e5ae83e.png

image.thumb.png.5932f10484b4c412b44d969baed7eb16.png

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My 80-year-old father asked me if I could repair his TISSOT watch which he got from my mother at his 40th birthday (as he remembers it). Now, he hasn’t been using it for some 20 or 30 years and he misses it. The problem being that the crown has come loose from the stem. The date can be set but the time can only be set in counter clockwise direction by moving the crown in clockwise direction. However, as soon as the crown is turned in counter clockwise direction it comes loose from the stem.

So, my plan is to remove the stem from the movement and glue its threads with Loctite 648. I want to remove the stem to get better control over it when gluing on the crown, and that is my problem and my question; how do I remove the stem?

The movement is a quartz movement, ETA calibre 955.112 and it is the very first quartz movement I’ve tried to repair. I thought it would be an easy task as I’ve been working on several mechanical and automatic ETA watches. I thought I would find a setting lever screw or a springed setting lever to remove the stem, but I can’t see any. Perhaps it is hiding underneath those blue plates? Anyway, I don’t want to take any unnecessary risks before having asked for your advice.
 

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VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

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1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

Hi   I think its the small black pin just south of the stem in your first picture press it down gently and pull the stem.

I Have enclosed the tech sheets for your interest.

612_ETA955.102,955.112,955.122,955.132,955.402,955.412,955.422,955.432.pdf 3.01 MB · 2 downloads

Thanks @watchweasol but I can't see "the small black pin" in the first picture (which was only there to show the calibre). The only black pin I can detect in my pictures is in the second picture (south of the stem) but that must surely be one of the dial feet, no? I've been eying the PDF (thanks) but just can't figure it out :unsure:

Any other suggestions anyone?

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rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

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Press this button . If it's difficult to remove and there is rust . You can remove the circiut board . Then you can see the stem and maybe even remove the clips that holds the setting lever. image.thumb.png.5932f10484b4c412b44d969baed7eb16_LI.jpg.1bf4f925ad59f464fa313fb5b65d8080.jpg

Edited by rogart63
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VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

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1 hour ago, rogart63 said:

Press this button . If it's difficult to remove and there is rust . You can remove the circiut board . Then you can see the stem and maybe even remove the clips that holds the setting lever. image.thumb.png.5932f10484b4c412b44d969baed7eb16_LI.jpg.1bf4f925ad59f464fa313fb5b65d8080.jpg

Thanks @rogart63! I suspected that "button-thingy" but as I was pressing it lightly with my tweezers it wouldn't budge one bit. I'll give it another try with some more pressure now that I know what it is and see what happens. If it doesn't move I'll remove the circuit board to get a better look. I don't expect it to be rusty as the movement looks to be great condition.

Happy New Year everyone!

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VWatchie Distinguished Member

VWatchie

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I just excused myself for a few minutes in the celebrations of the new decade and gave that button a bit more pressure and the stem came out as easy as pie. No resistance or problems whatsoever. Well, back to the new decade. See you on the other side! ;)

As always, thank you guys and what would I do without you!? :thumbsu:

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    • Neverenoughwatches
      AS 554 from 1930

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Nice interesting diver Razz, i have a sheffield dress watch, different movement altogether. Could be a wrong motion works part, how does the setting feel before fitting the cannon pinion, clutch and intermediate wheel meshing ok ?  The less traditional setting design could be suspect, the second wheel has a slip clutch assembly, that most likely needs looking at. LA is 42 ° Razz Tbh i  much prefer to call the complete unit the lever, then use the seperate names for all of its components. Such as guard pin, fork, fork horns, fork slot, lever arm, pallets , pallet arms, pallet slot, pallet stones. I suppose pallet fork is the combination of the two opposite ends that make up the lever, its also called the anchor which is descriptive of its appearance.  Its a pretty basic 1930s  swiss lever movement H and yes Nev was meaning the pallet fork.
    • RichardHarris123
      AS 554 from 1930

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      The pallet fork should really be called a lever, English lever, Swiss lever etc but most people including myself call it a pallet fork.
    • RichardHarris123
      Seiko 6309a diver crown replacement

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Seiko have case numbers, I  can't see it on your photos.  If you can find that we can look for a genuine crown.  If not, you need to measure the diameter of the stem, the distance between the lugs and the depth of the lugs.  The case number will be something like this. 
    • VWatchie
      AS 554 from 1930

      By VWatchie · Posted

      I'm not sure what kind of movement this is, but I'm curious to know if you're using the word "lever" as a synonym for "pallet fork"?
    • Razz
      AS 554 from 1930

      By Razz · Posted

      Actually kind of rough, maybe munute wheel pinion problems? Is the 2.73mm canion oinion which seems rarer and not availble on Cousins UK. The seconds hand works and suprising nice amplitude but don't know the lift angle and BE this one says 17 j but is a pin pallet as well. Cap jewels on the escape and drive train pivots. Interestingly in has both water proof and shock resistant on the caseback and dial. Puts this around 1969 or '70? The double bezel that works independently is cool has the pi symbol on each. Wonder if it can be used like a slide rule ir something...
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