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Oiling train jewels - assembled or unassembled?

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By Guest
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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Guest

Guest

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Folks, I'm a newbie working on my first pocket watch and I can't seem to find anything here in the forum or in Youtube videos that states/shows with authority which side of the train jewels gets oiled.  This translates basically to: assembled or unassembled?  Does the oil go on the "working" side of the jewel where the wheel shaft is inserted as you are assembling the train or do you wait until the train is fully assembled with the bridge in place and oil it from the "bottom", where you can see the tip of the wheel shaft poking through?  Thanks!

Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted

Take a close look at the jewels from both sides. You will see that one side is flat and the other side is dished. That dish is the oil sink or reservoir and that is where you put the oil.

Typically this is on the outer face of the plates and bridges so oil after assembly. However this is not case for capped jewels so these will normally need oiling before assembly.

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saswatch88 WRT Addict

saswatch88

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you are using synthetic oils, oil the pivot jewel assembled, then oil the cap jewel unassembled then assemble it make sure you get it right the first time because then oil will smudge and smear, and then you have to redo the entire movement if you are stickler like me. Or while keeping cap jewel assembled but train unassembled you can go from the bottom end only with a Bergeon automatic oiler. That’s pretty much the purpose of auto oilers, inserting correct amount of oil into jewel holes. Takes a little practice to know the correct amount to dispense.

Edited by saswatch88
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

The jewel has a little sink on the side you put the oil in. Make sure you add the correct amount, do not fill the sink hole right up. Also make sure you use the correct oil. With some movements you will probably need to oil part of the train before complete assembly as some jewel holes can be obscured by different parts of the movement, so be very observant when taking the movement apart. It is good practice these days to take photos as you go about for reference when putting the movement together. Not only does this apply to jewel holes but also to none jewel holes. You will find using the finest oilier is the best for train and balance work.   

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Guest

Guest

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Posted

You guys are just awesome, as always!  Thank you so much for the prompt, descriptive, and authoritative replies.  I really appreciate it!

Sometimes something that is seemingly so basic and obvious to the experienced is nevertheless a mystery to someone doing it for the first time. 

One thing I love about this forum is there are no stupid questions and no toxic replies.  At least not that I have seen.  Many if not most of the professional forums on the internet (e.g. database administration; my profession) have become a place where the blind lead the blind and are filled with toxic characters who are in it apparently for their own self-aggrandizement. 

Thank you all for making and keeping this forum a place that is aggravation-free.  I sense a friendly, helpful group and I appreciate it.  It's nice for a change.

Loren Sorensen

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
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Loren we don't have any nasty members on this forum. A few new members have tried to up set this friendly forum and they get banned  right away . You are safe on here. As I'm one of the Mods we look after our members. So feel  safe and post away. It can be very helpful to post good clear photos of the watch/clock part that is causing problems, we have found it helps members that are not to well established in Horology to also join it and help out.

Wishing you a Happy New Year    

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