Jump to content

balance spring loose frpm spring stud


gary17

Recommended Posts

Hi

I was trying to fit this balance when i noticed it was lose.

I have not had much success with balances before so wondered if someone could tell me the best way to go about reconnecting it to the spring stud without destroying it.

It is still connected to the spring boot.

See pics.

Any help (advice) would be a great help.

Do i remove the spring totally ?

Try to reconnect it from the way it is now?

How can i loosen the stud screw without it moving away from me?

Can i put it in a vice?

What parts can i hold in a vice?

Thanks

gary

Sorry pics aint great but best i can do with phone camera

IMG_20191129_211112.jpg

IMG_20191129_211050.jpg

IMG_20191129_211014.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pictures are not too clear, but is the spring lying to the outside of the stud presently?  I can see a brass pin in the stud, but is there a screw protruding from the actual stud as well?

 

Stick the balance down on a piece of Rodico or bluetack.  Assuming a standard stud and pin set up, I would carefully try to remove the brass pin from the stud.  Then I might well remove the stud from the cock, and try to slip the HS thru the stud hole and then remount the stud in the cock.  Then try to carefully re-insert the brass pin to secure the HS.  Realize even if successful, you will have likely some timing issues if you don't get the HS/Stud position just right as the spring was initially vibrated to determine the position in the stud.  That's my take and it will be a bit of a PITA to do this so take your time and get it as close to right as possible.

 

Good Luck.


RMD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey

Yer removed brass pin and the stud. Only thing is now i do not have the magnification to see them close enough to attempt to try to slip the HS through the stud hole. Hope santa brings me a scope that i can use to see them.

Thanks for your help. Im sure it would have worked if i could just see the damn parts.

cheers

gary

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary   have a shufty on the bay there are some electronic scopes on there probably chinese reasonably priced and do a reasonable job. Ihave one and had no problems with it.  A double lens loupe of suitable magnification should enable you to fit the spring ok. The method I have used is re fit the stud to the cock lay the balance on the cock, remove the pin and manipulate the spring into the hole then fit the pin, tight enough to hold it in position so that when re fitted to the movement any timing issues can be addressed by altering the spring in situ. As mentioned by Rduckworth its a PIA and takes a lot of patience to achieve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile, and not less mobile which is the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
    • Would it be correct to say that the stronger the mainspring, the thicker the oil should be? So for a fusee mainspring, should a thick grease be used?
    • I started on pocket watches as they are easier to work on than wristwatches. Many had gold cases, which is why there are so many movements for sale. I was always on the look out for cases, for as Nickelsilver says,  a 16s movement will fit any 16s case* (with tweaks to the stem). I also started hand winding mainsprings, before I had winders. It can be done without damage, but it's quite hard on the fingers.  But you can make homemade winders, see here      * some movements, eg "railroad grade", have a setting lever on the edge of the  dial at about the 1 -2 o'clock, so need a special case.
×
×
  • Create New...