Jump to content

1950s Lume colour


Recommended Posts

I have a 1954 Accurist watch that had lumed hands and hour markers and would like to relume them to the original colour. I can’t find a photo of the same one as a reference but Smiths did aa almost identical dial which had a very light colour Lume of an orange or dark yellow colour. Does anyone know what that colour looked like new and any idea where I can get that colour

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old radium based luminescent paint will age to rust red color but I think it all started green.  If moisture gets to it, it will turn an ash black.  Generally, collectors look for a mocha color.  Haven't seen much of that in radium watches though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The colour of radium and tritium based luminous material is not from the radium itself (which is only present in very small amounts), but from the "phosphors" that are included with it. Confusingly these materials generally contain little or no phosphor

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphor#Radioactive_light_sources

If you are planning on removing the old lume, you might like to take a look at this thread too.

It goes in to some detail regarding these materials.

Generally they are relatively safe so long as you treat them with respect and avoid getting them airborne or ingesting them. They do however remain radioactive, long after the "phosphor" looses its ability to produce light.

On the subject of colour, if you look on line you will see quite a number of different shades for old lume, but generally they tended to be somewhere on the bluish green spectrum, with some variation in to yellow.

Modern lume comes in a much broader group of colours and intensities, and there is a bit of an art in producing something that looks authentically old, without being too bright or clean looking

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have reasonable success with instant coffee and yellow ink ..... nothing scientific, but when gaining experience it can get pretty close and the watch gets useful during dark again B)

On the WUS-forum I go under the name EndeavourDK.

Read on page 28, as from 9th of March, through to page 30 were I started experimenting with this idea; https://forums.watchuseek.com/f10/before-after-4552677-28.html

The only problem I still have is to find a less "neon"-yellow ink, but apart from that; it works for me as a treat.

Take a few old / scrap hands and start experimenting ..... not much to loose ;)

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know it’s against the grain restoring a vintage watch but I have OCD and the slightest mark or blemish has to go and putting it back to original condition is the only way for me sorry. It’s going to be for me and not for a customer so original Lume colour is a must. So what colour green is my next dilemma, looking on Cousins shop the green Lume looks about right, what do you think?

The watch has a good service history which is probably why there is no lume left on the hands but the markers have gone black so PPE will be worn when I remove it, thanks for the advice.

The watch has an expanding strap but not sure if that’s an original, any ideas what it might be?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
    • No thats straight out of the watch as i found it the balance wheel is almost as bad. I've never seen so much material removed.
×
×
  • Create New...