Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Can anyone give me advice on how best to open, close and adjust these regulating pins, before I do something irreversible? They are from an Osco 42. I have tried to turn the thicker pin with a screwdriver in the now mangled slot. I have also tried pliers. It won't budge. I Bent the thinner pin to get the hairspring out, but I suspect I don't have too many more chances to get it back into shape. I'd prefer to do as much manipulation as possible with the hairspring out of the way.

WIN_20191004_20_13_02_Pro.jpg

Posted

Hi the regulator pins are not meant to be bent as this will effect the rating of the watch as the gap in which the balance spring operates will be incorrect.  In your case the boot shaped leg has to turn thro 90 deg to release the spring. Some of these legs are tight, Use a screwdriver which fits the slot and place the balance cock on a firm surface and with firm pressure attempt to turn the leg. If you manage this there is just a chance you will be able to stroke the fine pin upright with fine tweezers, stroke it along its lenght carefully do not attempt to bend it straight or it will break off.                          

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted

When I get a boot that doesn't want to move I put some oil, thin like 9010, on its mounting point. Turn back and forth with (well fitting) screwdriver and they go free. Only recall one in 20 years that didn't work, old Lecoultre from the 20's.

WWsol is right about the pin, need to be really careful, the gap should be roughly equivalent to a hairspring thickness when you're done.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 3
Posted

Thanks guys, this is just the kind of advice I was hoping for. As usual, WRT has the answer. I will work on freeing up the boot and report on the result.

Posted

Success! A drop of oil on the base boot and the head of the rivet then letting it soak for a while worked wonders! Didn't even need working loose, just turned like there'd never been a problem.

I also managed to straighten the pin to a reasonable degree by placing the tip of an oiler between pin and boot, then squeezing with tweezers. The final adjustment of the gap I will do when fitting everything back together. I don't see how I can get the gap small enough and parallel, without putting a severe dog-leg in the pin right at the bottom, but I might not have to. We'll see.

Thanks very much once again. Amazing how just having the confidence you are doing the right thing helps you do it right.

  • Like 1
Posted

I believe both the boot and pin are usually a friction fit in the balance cock.  Cousins UK have a range of these available, so as a last resort (or necessity if you bust them!!) you could measure up the old ones before removing them and source some new ones to push in.

Posted

A final report from my side. Here's a close-up of the regulator pins in action. I think you can make out where the balance spring sits in the gap, and that the gap is reasonably small and parallel in the area it needs to be. I think I'll leave it at that. The movement has too many other issues to be a really good performer anyway, but great for practising on. Thanks again to everyone for the help and advice.14559044_Regulatorclose-up.png.728c4bff933f7acc4d1b707c44ec0e64.png 

  • Like 1
Posted

well done a tickelish job completed. Fiddling with regulators pis and boots often lead to disaster, a slip of the screwdriver and its all over so good control is required so one again well don to you:Bravo: 

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...