Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have serviced a 1333 omega .But it won't work even if the coil and circuit is okay . I have tested the coil. The circuit have pulse and i put it on a vibrograph it looks good. But won't run . Wheels runs smooth . i think i have tested everything but nothing seams to work. I thought a could have put some of the wheels upside down . But looked a the 1337 service here on the forum . And can't see anything i have done wrong . It's eating me up that i can't fix it.  Can it still be something with the circuit?  

Posted

Did the watch work before you serviced it?

As you've tested everything what's the current consumption of the watch?

One thing you might try is isolating the gear train from the rotor. In other words put only the rotor in and providing you can see it see if that moves when you apply power. That's a rather interesting rotor if it was demagnetized or didn't have its proper magnetic properties that would be a reason it wouldn't run.

 

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3913-omega-1337-quartz-movement-complete-service/

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi   Daft question I know but have you got power to the circuit.

I have put it in a vibrograf where i can see the pulses from the quartz crystal. But the rotor isn't moving . And if i put a multimeter over the 2 prongs on the circuit it gets a puls every second . The coil should be okay as i measured it to 3 ohms. DSC00479.thumb.JPG.e832ddd1ba9ad6a4dae793a055e74322.JPGDSC00480.thumb.JPG.ca5bdb18507edd87164705f37c985c89.JPG

 

5 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Did the watch work before you serviced it?

As you've tested everything what's the current consumption of the watch?

One thing you might try is isolating the gear train from the rotor. In other words put only the rotor in and providing you can see it see if that moves when you apply power. That's a rather interesting rotor if it was demagnetized or didn't have its proper magnetic properties that would be a reason it wouldn't run.

 

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3913-omega-1337-quartz-movement-complete-service/

The minute and second hand moved before i serviced it but now it's not moving. I can get it to move a little bit but stops after a few seconds. Good tip with removing all wheels except the rotor.  I will do that . Should be easy just to remove the wheel next to the rotor . Could very well be the magnetic on the rotor.  

Posted

Where are you measuring the pulses to the coil?


It may simply be the case that the contact between the coil and the PCB is not too good (open circuit, or high resistance, due to dirt/oil/corrosion on the PCB pads. If you can measure (carefully) on the coil itslmf, or better yet, if you have a small compass or hall effect sensor to pick up the magnetic pulses then you will know if the coil actually works.

Is the rotor tuning freely? Is there any magnetic debris stuck to the rotor?

 

Posted

As all the component parts seem to be in order on their own but not in the whole something untoward is happening, As Andy remarked the coil /circuit joints, or  a stuck up rotor.  Can you see if the rotor turns as it receives each pulse, If it is then there is no connection between the rotor and the train. Might be damaged wheel teeth or a damaged rotor gear.

Posted

Tinkered with it today. Did as JohnR725 said and run only the rotor . Worked . And when i put the wheels back it started to run. No idea why or how . But as is now it's working . I am going to let it run . Need to adjust the hour hand a little but at least it's working.  YAAAAAAAAA. DSC00483.thumb.JPG.706c39c52ad00f2cfab074bc97a308ea.JPG

  • Like 3
  • 8 months later...
Posted (edited)

Found this again the other day. The hour hand is standing still . The minute is moving since i serviced it.  Why is that? The hour hand is turned by a magnet instead of a cannon pinion. There most be something with the hour magnet. Finding parts for this movement is almost impossible. 

Edited by rogart63
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/7/2020 at 10:50 PM, rogart63 said:

Found this again the other day. The hour hand is standing still . The minute is moving since i serviced it.  Why is that? The hour hand is turned by a magnet instead of a cannon pinion. There most be something with the hour magnet. Finding parts for this movement is almost impossible. 

Since I can only see one coil, in the examples I found online, then I presume from your description that there is a small magnet on the minute wheel that causes the hour hand to "click" at the top of the hour.

OmegaConstellation1333QuartzCropped.jpg.a4ed426d044a3e2f114a1f582edbf33c.jpg

This seems a strange arrangement, given that I can see a bunch of gears there too, Why use a magnet  when you could simply gear the hour wheel from the minute wheel. Can you provide more pictures of the way this works?

Could the issue be due to drag caused by dirt or corrosion, rather than a problem with the magnet.

Time for some close magnification work to inspect gears and pinions I think.

Edited by AndyHull


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Making a stud pin for a pocketwatch from 1mm copper wire, softer than brass but it will do the job. The lathe cost 3 pound including the chuck, powered from an old electric shaver adapter. 
    • And I'm already very pleased with my life choices...
    • Demagnetizers work on the principle of a decaying magnetic field. Whether the expensive Elma or the cheap Chinese...same principle. For the cheap ones, you are decaying the magnetic field manually by drawing the watch away from the demagnetizer while it is energized. The Elma (and others) generates a decaying magnetic field electronically so you don't have to do the work. If you use the cheap ones properly,  they will do the job. I prefer the Elma style...but that is just me.
    • I also still use my cheap first set of screwdrivers. I replaced the blades of the smallest (0.6mm) with higher quality once I had bent a few of the originals, but beyond that I have been fine. Note though that I do not work on any remotely valuable watches and most of what I deal with are in a truly terrible state, watches that have been banging around in kitchen drawers or toolboxes. So my concern for screw head slot integrity and scratches is usually not very high.  As for a loupe - you won't need anything powerful for an ST36 that is new. You don't need to do close inspection of balance pivots because they will not be worn out, and a 3x or 5x loupe is perfectly sufficient to see the oiling. I don't have any microscope or powerful magnification of any sort. I just use cheap loupes. But again this would be different if I were working with more valuable watches. And if I had equipment to burnish pivots, then I would get a microscope to check my work.
    • I've recently switched over to using a x2.5 -x3 eyeglass for disassembly and some larger part assembly. It's interesting to see how accustomed and trained your eyes become to that way of working after using a microscope for years. And pick up and work at eyelevel when possible. Personally I would stick with and learn to use regular oilers efficiently. 
×
×
  • Create New...