Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all. I have a broken subsidiary dial pivot (hope that’s the correct terminology) on a eta 2894-2. I realise the chronograph module is supposed to be non serviceable but my research shows that there is a Swatch group company that does sell spares for this module. Can anyone tell me who this is please. Many thanks.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

The module is manufactured and serviced by Dubois Depraz but I believe they only accept work from the dealers.. ie Omega or other brands that incorporate this module in their watches. Also they are not serviced per se , but replaced on an exchange basis.

Anyone else can confirm this?

Anilv

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Well it depends .. ETA themselves have this movement listed on their chronograph selection nowdays.
https://www.eta.ch/en/our-products/mechanical-movements/mecaline-chronographs/eta-mecaline-chronographs-2894-2
If you push the technical Communication button on the site you will find the Tech sheet for it too. 
If your movement is looking anything like the one above then getting the parts from a third part dealer I would look for them at https://www.cousinsuk.com
I attache a Picture so you can try to find the correct part.
Hope this helps you on your search..

ETA2894-2.png

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes that’s my movement. But I don’t think the part I need is listed. Can anyone confirm the name of the part I need in the picture attached from the chronograph module of a eta 2894-2. Many thanks for your help.


b678affc524c7ff82d44789f40e5faef.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
33 minutes ago, Specializedjim said:

Yes that’s my movement. But I don’t think the part I need is listed. Can anyone confirm the name of the part I need in the picture attached from the chronograph module of a eta 2894-2. Many thanks for your help.

As mentioned above the module is made by Dubois Depraz not ETA, unfortunately you will not get help from them, that's the standard Swiss business practice.

  • Like 1
Posted

Many thanks for the info. I’m a bit confused as to the manufacturer as I have been told the chronograph module is actually made by eta not Depraz. Any way that doesn’t matter I would still really like to know the correct terminology for the part that’s broken. Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, Specializedjim said:

Yes that’s my movement. But I don’t think the part I need is listed. Can anyone confirm the name of the part I need in the picture attached from the chronograph module of a eta 2894-2. Many thanks for your help.

Unfortunately JDM is partly right the chronograph module has part number 8510 and is only sold as what ETA calls an "integrated part".
You have to be authorized by ETA to buy it from them but even then it comes with an hefty prize.
At Cousine you will find it as a "Restricted" part.

I think the best chance is to buy one "Second hand" but there isn´t any parts for it out there.

Used module:
https://www.hhcdsjstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=486718

New:
Cousineuk Chronograph Module Assembled, Height 1 ( 8510 ), ETA 2894.2 ETA289428510 (Restricted)
https://www.boley.de/caliber/watchmovements/eta/4873
http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=1&Category_Code=1H-Parts-Movt-IntParts-ETA-07&Product_Code=ETA2894-8510-H1

And a tech sheet with the correct partnumbers for everything except the chronograph module.
 

2894-2_Tech_Com.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks everyone for the great input.

I have now been able to disassemble the Chrono module, remove the broken item and after about twenty attempts learning a little more every time, put the module back together and it works!!

So if I can’t get a new part the next question is, is there a standard repair procedure for repairing a broken shaft/spindle in a part like this (please see picture). I am a experienced engineer and have access to all types of machine tools thanks to my job. But before I start trying to reinvent the wheel I wondered if there is a proven method.

Thanks again for all the help.

0f16c1a9ec10c2aee81fe2a386d6351e.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

If I understand right it's a snapped pivot, an experienced watchmaker would cut a new one on a watch maker's lathe and install it with a staking tool.

A general machine shop wouldn't be able to make a part that small. 

FYI it's normal with the Swiss watch industry that one can't easily understand who does what. It's a thick web of contract work, patents and agreements made to their exclusive benefit. It has been like that since more than 200 years. 

Posted

With these DD modules you need to dismantle with the chrono in the 'running' position to avoid parts flying off.

But you've probably figured that out already! I serviced mine when I had one .. more to see how it was constructed but after getting it back together I swore I'd never service (or buy) another.

Anilv

Posted
If I understand right it's a snapped pivot, an experienced watchmaker would cut a new one on a watch maker's lathe and install it with a staking tool.
A general machine shop wouldn't be able to make a part that small. 
FYI it's normal with the Swiss watch industry that one can't easily understand who does what. It's a thick web of contract work, patents and agreements made to their exclusive benefit. It has been like that since more than 200 years. 


Many thanks that’s what I thought would be the method.

I work for a very large Japanese cutting tool manufacturer and we produce tools down to 0.1mm. Because of this I also have customers who have equipment to work this small so the size of the repair isn’t an issue. I may even manufacture a new part complete if I can’t simply purchase a new one.

Again many thanks again for the information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
2 minutes ago, Specializedjim said:

I work for a very large Japanese cutting tool manufacturer and we produce tools down to 0.1mm. Because of this I also have customers who have equipment to work this small so the size of the repair isn’t an issue. I may even manufacture a new part complete if I can’t simply purchase a new one.

 

You also have to measure the jewel hole to a precision of at least 0.01mm for the new pivot. It could also be made as an extension fitted on the existing body.

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
    • How long had it been without any wind before you first put it on the timegrapher?  Perhaps there was some debris / old lubricant that loosened up while you were waiting to do the 24 hour reading? I recently serviced a Seiko 6319 that immediately after service was absolutely horrible on the timegrapher - 24 hours later (without me doing anything) it was rock solid!  I was a little surprised by this (as I have seen improvements in amplitude after letting it run in but never a watch going from useless to great!). I was suspicious that some dirt must still be in there so I took it apart and cleaned and lubcricated it again and had exactly the same experience - snow storm that after some hours turned into a nice straigh line with good amplitude 🤷‍♂️
    • Yes, I know it was able to run before just enough that everything supposed to be affixed with shellac could fall out. I won't get back to work on this watch for several days at least, but one thing you mentioned about the banking pin adjustments being intended for fork horn clearance got me wondering.... The last adjustment I made to the entry stone yesterday did not solve the problem when the balance is installed. The escape teeth can't quite clear the stone when the balance swings. But I thought it was going to work because manually snapping the fork back and forth did allow the escape wheel to advance almost all the time. I wonder if there's another issue with the impulse jewel, that I have to shellac again anyway. I am going to measure the fork slot and the jewel because I am curious if it is the right size or possibly narrower than it should be. My thinking is if the horn clearance is too great maybe it is not getting enough impulse to clear the escape tooth. But pushing the fork with a tool can move it far enough to clear the escape wheel tooth.  I'll see later in the week. I didn't expect a big challenge from this watch because it ticked for 5 minutes before stopping without shellac. As always I was way wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...