Jump to content

1A auto oiler drop size


Recommended Posts

The drop of oil on the thicker endstone is always larger. I swapped the chatons but that didn’t make any difference. I tried it on my bench mat, I tried with the chatons in the main plate secured with the shock spring. For the past three evenings I’ve been trying all sorts but I always end up with a larger drop on the thicker endstone.
When I test it drop by drop on the main plate itself the drops are identical, absolutely perfect. Yet when I try to oil the incabloc it’s always larger on the thicker endstone.
It’s not as noticeable as it is in the pictures. I zoomed my phone x4 and put x12 loupe over the lens to take the pictures but it is a larger drop regardless.
This is the clone of the Unitas 6497. I have one or two scrap movements with incablocs and I’ll test it on them this weekend. In the meantime if anyone knows why this happens let me know.

20190801_195813 (Copy).jpg

20190801_230049 (Copy).jpg

20190801_230016 (Copy).jpg

20190801_005452 (Copy).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if the thicker end stone has a smaller radius of curvature to its top surface, resulting in greater magnification, like a stronger lens.

If so then identical size drops placed onto the flat surfaces of each jewel will look different sizes when viewed through the jewel, with the thicker jewel showing the greater apparent size.

.... just a thought. :-)

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Marc said:

I wonder if the thicker end stone has a smaller radius of curvature to its top surface, resulting in greater magnification, like a stronger lens.

If so then identical size drops placed onto the flat surfaces of each jewel will look different sizes when viewed through the jewel, with the thicker jewel showing the greater apparent size.

.... just a thought. :-)

 

I'm revising this theory.

Even if both jewels had the same radius of curvature to their upper surfaces, and therefore the same magnifying power, the greater separation between the curved surface and the oil drop on the flat surface in the case of the thicker jewel would still result in the greater apparent size of the drop when compared to the identical size drop on the thinner jewel when viewed through the jewel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your input.

I think George is right. I’m not sure whether they would go to the extra expense in China to apply epilame to the parts for clones but who knows. Certainly the surface tension is different on the two stones.
The diameter of the drops is different but so is the height (larger diameter – lower height, smaller diameter – higher height) hence I assume the amount of the oil is the same on both endstones.
I tried to capture it, you might be able to pick up on it. It’s very visible when you look at it with a loupe in the right light.

I also tested another incabloc and it’s absolutely spot on.

I was doubting the efficiency of the auto oiler because it takes some time to set it up to get the drop the right size, it certainly would have been much quicker to do it with a standard oiler but the size of the endstones is very much the same regardless of the size of the movements, at least the two I have. Below is a picture of the Unitas 6497 next to the other movement I used for testing, the endstones are almost identical in size. The smaller one is is smaller, but only a fraction.

20190804_132022 (Copy).jpg

20190804_132056 (Copy).jpg

20190804_115424 (Copy).jpg

20190804_122557 (Copy).jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I saw mention of the super glue and bolt method on various forums. I wondered if there’d be any problem with that given the watch is titanium. Will the glue or the acetone stain the metal? Titanium is supposed to be resistant to corrosion, but sometimes certain metals react with chemicals unexpectedly.   If it doesn’t stain or scratch the watch and can be completely removed with acetone, the bolt and glue method seems like a clever last resort approach.   However, I don’t think I’m ready to use that method on this watch. The watch is new, and it was a gift, and it wasn't cheap. Also, +10 spd really isn’t that big of a deal. I can just correct it once a week to keep it within a minute of the correct time. If I had a manual wind watch I’d have to wind it more often than every week, so I can think of it that way.   I think neverenoughwatches is right that this is the wrong watch to use to start learning how to repair watches. I think I’ll either buy the Unitas 6498 or a clone to do the watch fix course. I may also get a $200 invicata pro diver with the SW200 movement that I believe is also in the tag heuer aquaracer to start learning watch repair. It uses the “caliber 5” which I believe is just an SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2 with a tag decorated rotor.   How long would you all say it takes to develop basic competence working on mechanical watches? What level does one end up at after doing the first three watch fix courses?   I mentioned in my intro post that I was emboldened to try to regulate the tag watch by my success in swapping out a broken quartz movement on a friends 15 year old fashion watch a month or so ago. It had a Ronda 762 which was available new from Esslinger for $10. I didn’t have the right tools or any experience but I was able to remove the movement, swap the dial and hands, and reassemble the watch to fix it. It appears to work fine now. The only reason I attempted it though was because they were going to throw the watch out, so the risk was really just the $10 for the new movement. The risk on this aquaracer is much higher and probably above my risk threshold.   Also thanks very much for all your suggestions and help. I’ll post some more images of the watch shortly.
    • Thats just the tip of the iceberg, they have no idea of what is yet to come.  When you start grabbing stranger's left hands to turn their wrists to see what watch they are wearing then thats when they need to start worrying. Erm  not that i...ah-hem....have done that.
    • Can you get a top view with power off, balance at rest? The hairspring could be off center just enough that it is touching something when running (center wheel, stud, regulator). Thing is, on older stuff in particular, if you find a balance complete there's about a 99.99% chance the hairspring of the new balance will need some adjustment to work correctly.   Also, not much use getting concerned with the rate until you get the amplitude up.
    • Those pins look awfully tight. Does the hairspring slide freely between them when you adjust the rate?  
    • John will ask this question anyway: how did the watch run before your service?
×
×
  • Create New...