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On 7/27/2019 at 12:03 PM, yankeedog said:

agreed . to the best of my knowledge I have never INGED . not once.

sorry about that fellas.i had written my question and then realised i had not added the photos,then when i edited,well you have seen the result! only trouble is i have forget what the question was:wacko: will get back to it another time.

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    • I saw mention of the super glue and bolt method on various forums. I wondered if there’d be any problem with that given the watch is titanium. Will the glue or the acetone stain the metal? Titanium is supposed to be resistant to corrosion, but sometimes certain metals react with chemicals unexpectedly.   If it doesn’t stain or scratch the watch and can be completely removed with acetone, the bolt and glue method seems like a clever last resort approach.   However, I don’t think I’m ready to use that method on this watch. The watch is new, and it was a gift, and it wasn't cheap. Also, +10 spd really isn’t that big of a deal. I can just correct it once a week to keep it within a minute of the correct time. If I had a manual wind watch I’d have to wind it more often than every week, so I can think of it that way.   I think neverenoughwatches is right that this is the wrong watch to use to start learning how to repair watches. I think I’ll either buy the Unitas 6498 or a clone to do the watch fix course. I may also get a $200 invicata pro diver with the SW200 movement that I believe is also in the tag heuer aquaracer to start learning watch repair. It uses the “caliber 5” which I believe is just an SW200-1 or ETA 2824-2 with a tag decorated rotor.   How long would you all say it takes to develop basic competence working on mechanical watches? What level does one end up at after doing the first three watch fix courses?   I mentioned in my intro post that I was emboldened to try to regulate the tag watch by my success in swapping out a broken quartz movement on a friends 15 year old fashion watch a month or so ago. It had a Ronda 762 which was available new from Esslinger for $10. I didn’t have the right tools or any experience but I was able to remove the movement, swap the dial and hands, and reassemble the watch to fix it. It appears to work fine now. The only reason I attempted it though was because they were going to throw the watch out, so the risk was really just the $10 for the new movement. The risk on this aquaracer is much higher and probably above my risk threshold.   Also thanks very much for all your suggestions and help. I’ll post some more images of the watch shortly.
    • Thats just the tip of the iceberg, they have no idea of what is yet to come.  When you start grabbing stranger's left hands to turn their wrists to see what watch they are wearing then thats when they need to start worrying. Erm  not that i...ah-hem....have done that.
    • Can you get a top view with power off, balance at rest? The hairspring could be off center just enough that it is touching something when running (center wheel, stud, regulator). Thing is, on older stuff in particular, if you find a balance complete there's about a 99.99% chance the hairspring of the new balance will need some adjustment to work correctly.   Also, not much use getting concerned with the rate until you get the amplitude up.
    • Those pins look awfully tight. Does the hairspring slide freely between them when you adjust the rate?  
    • John will ask this question anyway: how did the watch run before your service?
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