Jump to content

F(R)olex balance repair


Recommended Posts

I’ve been asked to fix a Folex Daytona Chronograph for a friend for sentimental reasons. I’ve found the issue is the missing pin on the balance pivot. Does anyone recognise the movement and advise where I can get a replacement- if they are available?? I’m UK basedbc14b4d9123e7dbbec2364822e881e1b.jpgeec408e217f5d21c520be91b2b1ce05f.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, carlos123 said:

Do they do a chronograph version? This one is supposed to be a Daytona.

Trying to bring it "closer to original"? Unfortunately mechanical chrono isn't an Asian specialty, nor economical.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trying to bring it "closer to original"? Unfortunately mechanical chrono isn't an Asian specialty, nor economical.

I’m not even sure the chrono element is actually meant to work [emoji23]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, carlos123 said:

I’m not even sure the chrono element is actually meant to work emoji23.png

I think that sentimental value is well preserved as long one has the piece. Your friend should accept it for what it is and be happy to have you trying to repair it somehow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
    • one of the problems we have is visible versus invisible. For instance millennium disulfide another high pressure lubricant black in color. I was told by somebody worked for the Boeing company that they had a piston like device somewhere that has eight call it around it to grab it so it has to slide and in the collet has to grab. But if somebody puts that type of dry grease on where grease with that in it it embeds itself basically in the metal and they have to throw the whole part away they get use it all. So I suspect on all the dry powdery lubricants that they will go into all the basically microscopic cracks and crannies of the metaland that's where it is visually at least until you scrub it off your visually going to see it which is good because you want your lubrication the stay word is. But I'm sure it doesn't last forever on the metal it's just a really nice lubrication  
    • Thanks for the info. I can't seem to find tech sheets for those either.  I'll muddle my way though 🙂
×
×
  • Create New...