Jump to content

Back on the watch wagon


ajdo

Recommended Posts

Hi All - I have had several nice watches in my drawer for many years, most watches were purchased in France while I lives there, now I live in the US. 

Like a lot of people, I got into the “technology” craze of iPads and iPhone like most watch makers got lost into Quartz watch movements in the 80s. From the beginning I just could not bare having to re-charge my iWatch every night, as if it was not enough having to rechange the iphone daily!

Recently, I reopened my watch drawer and realized I had some nice automatic watched and a whole bunch of watch with Quartz movement watches not running do to lack of fresh batteries. Quatz watches suddenly felt as cumbersome as my iWatch. 

To make long story shorter, I decides to plug-in my watchwinders, install my nice watches, and revisite the movements and watch histories. While doing some research on Youtube, I was glad to watch many video from Watch Repair Channel and decided to join the Watch Repair Talk club. I like the idea in going a step further from just glancing over a subject and was glad Watch Repair Channel was going a step further.

I may purchase the watch repair lessons just to understand better watches and movements but I think it will stay a hobby and nothing more. Too busy in my current profession to undertake something that would take years to master. Although if I had been introduced to movements earlier in in life, I would have been happy to go to school and take it in as a trade.

Apologies for such a long reading. I look forward to interacting!

My nicer watches:

Omega Speedmaster Mark40 ref. 3520.5 - Caliber Omega 1151

-Zenith Elite Automatic 682 Gold, Chronomètre COSC, Limited Edition, date, dual time GTM

-Ball Engineer Master II Diver, Chronomètre COSC - DM1020A 

- Baume et Mercier Hamilton - Quartz and needs a battery!

None have ever been services but the Omega certainly need an oil change. It looses +25s per day.

Ball loses 1s per week! Yes you read correctly 

Zenith gains +5s per day. I may want to give it an oil change as well.

The Baume et Mercier Hamilton: Even though it’s a Quartz, is just nice and different. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
    • There are some parts on Ebay for the seiko 6020A, it may just be a waiting game for someone to strip one down, NOS will be more scarce . K would strip your movement down to the module then start looking at other seiko movement to see if that coil is used, then seek out a seiko part dealer. Also Retrowatches youtube owner Mike may give you some advice try him on his site . He also hangs around amateur watchmaking groups.
    • I would agree, in order to work harden something you need to exceed it's yield strength when it moves from the elastic zone to the plastic zone and you get permanent deformation and work hardening which is fairly close to its failure point, relatively speaking and dependent on the material/alloy of course. In theory you can load something constantly within its elastic range and not suffer work hardening issues.
×
×
  • Create New...