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ajdo

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  1. Read these comments below on another forum that I found - as a newby, very interesting. With no disrespected intended, I would compare a watch repair hobbyist to a car mechanic hobbyist. If one wants to tinker around a car engine, why not. But when it comes to working on an engine timing or other aspects that are more involved, like any other profession, going to specialized school of the trade is paramount. Since a watch is a small object, one tends to translate at start “small-size” with “simplicity”. I think the following in a great read and will personally push me in near future to go toward the traditional learning route of watchmaking, even if I do not see It at this point as a profession - but who know what the future will bring. This also relates to my wanting to start with “good” tools, in order to experience and appreciate more the watchmaking trade from the start. Upgrading several times usually becomes more expensive anyway and I rather take the time to acquire the proper tools. It is a hobby for me after all as it stands and as much as I look forward to getting my “hands dirty” I already have a profession and other problem solving hobbies that I can wrap my mind around... One of them being being golf Just have a technical problem solving mind, I look forward to see if my hands can follow =============== “Post 1: If you are just looking to have fun, then do as woodwkr2 suggests, and get some books, watch some videos, etc. and have at it. I would however suggest though that you go in with realistic goals. I personally don't have any problems with hobbyists (some professional watchmakers do), and if you have followed any of my posts here I try to help where I can for those here who dabble in repairs. Some help is posted, and a lot is not since it's done via PM or email. I only say this because I don't want you or anyone to think I'm trying to discourage you, or be negative... The problem with people wanting to get into watch repairs, and eventually "service my own watches" as I see as the often stated goal, is that really you have no idea what is involved to do the job properly. Most people simply don't know how much they don't know about this subject. It's not anyone's fault, it's just how it is. One thing that's hard to get across is that even on a very simple watch, they require quite advanced (for a hobbyist) work on them. It doesn't have to be a co-axial, chronograph, or anything else complicated to easily be way over the head of a hobbyist. A simple manual winding movement can require a lot done to it - things I do often, if not every single day on every single watch. On the most basic level, it's rare that I am not adjusting end shakes, manipulating the balance spring, or dynamic poising some watch during my day. For example I'm working on a Speedmaster today along with others, and when all the chronographparts are stripped off, it's a very simple manual winding base movement. What I did to it today has nothing to do with it being a chronograph. I had to adjust the barrel arbor end shake (it was huge), adjust the end shake of the escape wheel (alsohuge), adjust the balance spring for flatness, concentricity, and centering between the regulating pins. Routine stuff for me to get the watch running properly, but the balance spring work in particular is something most hobbyists are not going to tackle. Even proper oiling of the pivots, and epilame treatment and oiling the escapement are going to be a major challenge for most hobbyists. One problem is that even after a watch is serviced,many hobbyists will be happy if it runs and keeps decent time, but this doesn't mean it's been serviced properly. Getting a watch ticking is not doing a proper service as it would be done by aprofessional (at least a decent one). So even just disassembling, cleaning, properly oiling, and adjusting a watch to a high standard will be beyondmany, and we haven't started talking about repairs yet. Even if you start with a watch running well, there is a good chance you may break something during the service. If it's something cheap then you can just a get a new part, but if it's something more expensive (or even worse rare) then you may be in trouble quickly. Something as routine as replacing a balance staff would be pretty advanced work for most hobbyists, and it requires a fair bit of equipment to do...lathe, staking set, roller remover, balance spring levers, truing calipers, poising tool... As I said, not trying to discourage you or anyone (the more you learn the more you will appreciate what professional watchmakers do) but just encourage you to be realistic. Most watch schools are 2 years in duration, and then the education really starts when you get hired and start servicing watches day in and day out... Anyway, good luck and if you have questions, ask. Cheers, Al Post 2: Balance spring work is best learned with someone there to guide you. The gold standard is having an instructor there who is experienced and can show you. Someone for whom "good enough" is not "good enough." Someone who will push you, and push you, and push you to get it perfect....over and over and over again. Very few people can do this on their own the way it's learned in a watchmaking school. Reading in a book about how to place a bend to have a specific result is quite different than actually doing it. Almost more import than that is actually knowing what result you really need to have on a spring, so what bend do I need to make to fix a specific problem. In other words, the basic rules for making a bend are simple, but knowing what bend you need isn't always simple or apparent. Also, part of this is training your eyes. Your eyes (and what's behind them) are valuable tools in watch repair. If you can't see the problem, you don't know it's there, so you can't fix it. For example what the average hobbyist sees as a balance spring that is perfectly concentric, will probably look out to me. It's just accumulated experience and being able to see very fine detail. For whatever reason, when you start out at this (we all start from the same place - no one is born with these skills), your eyes just can't see small imperfections. Only through doing this thousands and thousands of times do you get to know almost without looking hard that something is out. Concentricity, in particular on a flat balance spring, is the easy part. On an overcoil balance spring it can present different problems though, and a different approach to correcting errors is needed. Now correcting errors in concentricity, without creating errors in the flat, is something you need to be able to do. But even if you don't create errors in the flat, they still show up, and need to be corrected. This tends to be the more difficult thing to correct for most people. But if you know what to look for, I can often look at a spring that is dished, make one bend, and it's perfectly flat. And you need to be able to do this across a wide variety of sizes, strengths, and types of balance springs. As has been pointed out., do you really "want" to learn this? This part of watchmaking is not fun, really. It's necessary, but certainly not fun, in particular when you get a really messed up spring in a watch... Just something to consider. Cheers, Al” AJ
  2. For newbies interrested and after getting feedback on tweezers brand. Placed order for the following. 5306-1AM-PS-1 Dumont Style 1AM Brass 0.12/0.2mm 0203-3-PS-1 Dumont Style 3 Dumoxel 0.04/0.08mm 0203-5-PS-1 Dumont Style 5 Dumoxel 0.01/0.05mm Not sure if I made right choice on size. We make decisions amd learn AJ
  3. Dumont has 2 different sizes for each tweezers, 0.1/0.17mm vs 0.04/0.08 for #3 and 0.06/0.1 vs 0.01/0.05 for #5 I am ready to place order, which should one choose ? Thank you... AJ
  4. Lol! Yes I ask and they are very expensive. Also mentioned they are heavy, hurt and dig in the nose bridge. I’ll stick with loupes and look into Optivisor. Looking at pics, Optivisor does have openings on the forehead strap. I suppose everything has it’s pros and cons. AJ
  5. Few more question about Dumont tweezers before placing order. 1- While researching I read people preferring Dumont “brass” for certain tasks due to metal’s softness. For none-brass tweezers, should one choose DumonXel RC36 or harder DumoStar RC62 ? 2- Also, would one use “matte” rather than “polished” tweezers due to potential light reflexion or is it just a personal preference? Lastly tweezers #3 & #5 have 2 different size specs. Dumont #3 - straight tweezers sizes specs: 0.1/0.17mm vs 0.04/0.08mm Dumont #5 - straight tweezers sizes specs : 0.06/0.1mm vs 0.01/0.05mm 3- Which specs for #3 and #5 are more adequate for watch repair ? For information sharing, you will find Dumont straight tweezers specs sheet below: https://www.dumonttweezers.com/Tweezer/TweezerStyleList/31 Thank you, AJ
  6. @aac58 Although I think I will get ASCO/Bergeon/Horotec eye loupes, the head band loupe could be a practical tool. Something I just remembered about head band I used in the past, after an extended period of time they make your forehead sweat. Maybe the one’s I had were the cheap type. I also though my sister being a dentist uses the small biancular type loupes. Will have to ask her brand and model she uses. They look like these: https://www.esslinger.com/deluxe-galilean-loupe-3-5x-11-15/
  7. @aac58 From your research and experience, which “Loupe Visor” have the best quality magnification ? I own one from a long time ago but quality is very bad. Thank you, AJ
  8. Hi Khan, could you be more specific as far as quality spring bar and case kife and post a few product links ? Thank you ... AJ
  9. I appreciate the help Darak. Called a few places and all tried to sale me other materials or different brands. Not sure why Brass Dumont tweezers are so hard to find on this side of the world.
  10. Hahaha! Yes, I used their search tool as well but could not find “brass” Dumont tweezers AJ
  11. I am in NJ, will edit my profile. Much appreciate the information! AJ
  12. Was ready to purchase Dumont brass tweezers but could not find any on Esslinger website or anywhete else for that matter. Do not want to go via Bay or Azon, too much fake items these days First time I ever have a hard time buying anything online on this side on the pond. I may have to order on CousinsUK unless someone has a suggestion. Thank you... AJ
  13. A more comprehensible ASCO product data sheet : http://www.schurch-asco.com/e-shop/catalog/pdf/english/90_loupes.pdf
  14. Much appreciated @NickelSilver, could not find any clear technical information about watchmakers loupes on internet that made as much sense as what you wrote. I am sure others will benefit as well from your wisdom on the subject! Actually, after your explaination, JDM’s link from this morning is much clearer. It shows the type of glass in ASCO loupes: http://www.schurch-asco.com/e-shop/catalog/index.php?cPath=114_115&osCsid=d8c3a6eb43bf762fdb59e1e15c3a6fc7 Thank you... AJ
  15. @sean1996 : “With quality tools, you also want a place with quality reputation.” Excellent point, “quality & reputation” I think should be at the for-front of any hobby and business. Thank you for sharing @Moose : Hahaha! Nothing like real life experience story to drive one’s point home It seems screwdrivers, tweezers and loupe quality - from another post, are essencials. Quality/price point from brands mentioned seem to be in similar ball park. ***Any other necessary items, anyone would recommend based on good or bad past experiences ? AJ
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