Jump to content

As a tribute to our fearless leader and his latest video: A Build-Up!

rduckwor

By rduckwor
in Your Watch Collection

 Share

Recommended Posts

rduckwor WRT Addict

rduckwor

Posted
Posted (edited)

Some year ago, I bought a Swiss Legend watch strictly for the movement.  The watch cost less than the movement in it.  It was ugly as you might expect!


Time passed and I never found anything I really wanted to build up.  A period of boredom and lassitude struck and I needed a project while waiting for parts on another project.

 

To EBay and sourced a case, dial, and hands.  I should have paid better attention as the dial as it was a touch too large for the case.  I turned it down using a dremel and 400 grit sandpaper.  Worked very well and did not damage the dial.

 

Put it all together and here it is.

 

The more difficult task turned out to be clearancing the hands so they didn't foul.  Cutting the stem was no issue.

 

RMD

 

 

 

 

IMG_20170305_163842619.jpg

TURDOR_2.jpg

Edited by rduckwor
typos
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
AndyHull Distinguished Member

AndyHull

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, rduckwor said:

BTW, I have christened it the "TURDOR" courtesy of a typo when I was saving the picture.


RMD

You might be on to something. Turdor watches.. no worse than Virgin cola and FCUK fashionware, thought the colour might not be entirely authentic for a Turdor watch.  ~insert toilet humour joke here ~

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • noirrac1j
      Watch of Today

      By noirrac1j · Posted

      As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Hawaiikook808
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Marc
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Marc · Posted

      Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...