Jump to content

Clock mainspring winders


watchweasol

Recommended Posts

Hi Nad  There are no plans as such just cobbled together the machine from scrap timber and bits and pieces as I didn't feel like shelling out £350 plus for a shop bought unit, the only major expense were the retaining shells bought from America (timesavers) I have roughed out some drawings for you if you can mail me your address I will post them on to you.  have a look on the net for Joe Collins spring winder. It was originly designed for 400 day clocks but by changing the design to suit it will be suitable for all clocks

DSCF2939.JPG

DSCF2937.JPG

DSCF2930.JPG

DSCF2931.JPG

DSCF2929.JPG

DSCF2932.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a nice French Strike on a bell that keeps stopping that i need to sort out. Some time back I also bought a lathe a Unimat 3 with the milling attachment. This will be used to make the clock bushes and to sort out the pivots and screws. So I'll be getting my hands dirty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 stars for your ingenuity watchweasol.....Perhaps not as pretty as one you might purchase but hey You made it yourself and to me that goes way above fancy priced tools doing the same job. I have several projects in the pipeline which I am working on at present. Designing and making tools or 'Fettling' and improving sub standard items gives me as much pleasure as using them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Chrisdt  Yep not pretty but the idea was more functional In that it allows you to free the spring safely and then by reversing the barrel in the clamp tighten up and remove the retainer then let down the spring under control  no gloves!  I still have all my fingers and the thing works for most clocks. The Ollie Baker looks good and the price matches the looks, the Webster is the same

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
×
×
  • Create New...