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You push the levers in a bit with a small screwdriver for example. There are two of them.

To check if the impulse jewel rests inside the fork horn, observing any part of the fork you can see, would do. manually rotate the ballance wheel to see the fork move, impulse jewel is inside the horn where slight clock- anticlock move of ballance wheel causes the fork changes direcrion in response.

And the Day Disk needs to engage properly as well. It is often trickier to place than the Date Disk. I don't know anything about the 2830 so I may not have been much help. Is 'Swinglish' a bit like 'Franglais'?

Just to clarify about the 2836-2 movement and the day disk. The outer rim is the spacer so the day and date goes free from the dial when you put it on it has number 49 in the schematics. It might sometimes be difficult to get in place but then one know you warped it slightly. The day indicator clip is what is holding the day disk in place it is number 48 in the schematics. If you forget it in a 2836-2 movement the disk is not locked in place and will get misaligned when engaged. I guess it might work in the same way on a 2830, I have a hard time seeing how the outer rim will hold the day disk in place.

I had problems placing the dial rim so I left it off and that created problems with the date wheel. (There is no wavy washer on the 2836-2.) It isn't all that easy to place the dial rim; it has to be pushed on with a bit of oomph. Perhaps you should see whether your movement needs a dial rim. It may be that someone simply left it off because it was too difficult to replace. Frankly, I once put in a wavy washer in a 2836 instead of the dial rim; that caused things to get bent when the watch is cased. My teacher wasn't very happy with me...

I'm not super familiar with the ETA 2830 but have worked a lot with ETA 2836-2. The same phenomena you describe happens with the other movement too when one forgets to attache the day indicator spring clip. If it is not in place the day disc is pushed upwards and becoming miss aligned. On a 2836-2 the part number is 48, worth take a look.

In Bulgaria for a week, thought you might like to see my haul to date

Love it when A plan comes together

Hi AndyHull It was user error ...I did not realize you are suppose to remove the stem in the time set position ...I rebuilt key less and all is fine now . Thank you for your reply. Anthony PS I purchased a clone 2892 to practice on before I rip The Cartier apart. If I don't destroy it I'll use it for another watch build.

I promised to let you know how things went with the Gustav Becker that I mentioned yesterday. I'm fortunate in having an horology centre reasonably close to me, with weekly sessions, and an instructor in attendance. I took the clock along today and had it looked at. As I feared, the pallets were 'out', courtesy of a former 'repairer', but an hour or so of me adjusting them (the instructor says what's needed and then leaves you to get on with it) has now resulted back home in 6 hours of continuous running, the first time it was set-up. Woohoo! As a guy at another bench at the centre said, as I was grumbling about having to disassemble the whole clock at home several times for a number of failed adjustments during the week (having discovered you can't take just the pallet out on these clocks, the plates have to come apart each time), it does get easier as you get more familiar with it. However, I kicked myself today when the instructor pointed out that, during the trial-and-error pallet adjustment (I didn't have the manual or any means of actually measuring the pallet drop etc.), I only needed to put in the pallet, escape wheel and fourth wheel to see if it was going to work. Pretty obvious, really, but why hadn't I thought of that, when I'd been laboriously putting everything back together each time I'd worked on it?