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To keep fiddly cab jewels from leaving work bench, keep your left thumb on the cab as you unlock the spring, once unlocked hold the movement over a wide mouth jar, turn the movement so the jewel faces downwards, slightly tap the movemnt with a soft mallet so the cab falls down inside the jar to which you add your cleaning solution. I will post pictures showing the proceedure as sson as internet lets me. Joe

Look at my new tool, awesome bit of kit... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Santa isn't coming to me this year. I've be a very naughty boy. I’ve been wishing for things that I really shouldn’t at my age.

Née some photos please Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

The part number is contained in the movement parts list which I found in a number of places on-line. Thank you for the offer of help. The part number is 0963300 which is common to both of the movements. My reason for seeking out a part is not because I currently need one but because I wish to properly prepare for modding my SKX007 with a new movement. Yes, I've decided to keep it and upgrade it. Let me heirs (hopefully far in the future) worry about disposing of my watches. Hopefully, I won't lose or damage the clip when I remove and reinstall it as I exchange the day wheels. That said, I have a long and rich history of doing just that. I remove such items inside a plastic baggie if possible just to keep them under some sort of control. I'm not always successful so in addition to acquiring a NH36 movement, I'm also going to have a good idea where to find the e-clip should I need one. Breaking out my calipers may indeed be the correct route as I have no idea what the correct size is, except it's very small. I can't help but wonder if SII would make such a part in house or purchase it as a standard, off the shelf hardware item. If so, it should be available somewhere other than through Seiko.

Hi everybody. I was at the D1 theory exam this year (2018) I have this morning found out my result which was a fail (42%) and to say I am devastated is an understatement. I wish the exam wasn't biased towards clocks but that's life I guess. Roddy I believe you're the chap who was stood in the common room before the Theory exam as you were telling the guys about your experience with the case/pendant? A pilot was talking to you if I'm not mistaken. I'd be interested to know your theory result as you said you didn't finish. I finished with literally 2 minutes to spare and that was going flat out! Too many drawings, narratives and calculations for the time allocated I believe. Surely this year the pass rate would be lower than average? Kyle

I have to say the oil side of watch repair makes me smile. Back in November put in an order for a 55 gallon drum of 1000 weight steam oil for my traction engine. I buy about one drum a year and it lasts well. Two weeks ago I ordered most of the oils I thought I would need for watch repair, the total quantity came to about 14ml of oil. I paid a third of the cost of my 55gallons on the watch oils. After the panic had subsided I realised that the 14ml of oil would probably last me most of the rest of my life. Seemed a cheap hobby after that! Merry Christmas to you all!

Hi everyone! I´ve read all what you´ve been talking about here and still have to read the other thread about oiling and lubricating, I really thank you for your help! I´ve learned a lot with this reading!

Good points, Bob. I did an awful lot of reading before buying my lubricants and cut corners where I thought I could. I bought Jisma 124 ($44.50) in place of 9501 ($72) for the canon pinion. And, with shelf life and other factors in mind, I bought HP1300 in place of D5. Less money for a much smaller quantity, but twice the shelf life. One of the books I've read, "Amateur Watchmaking" by Per Torphammar suggests the hobbyist only needs 9010, D5 and 8300. "...one "high-speed low-load oil" and one "low-speed high-load" oil, plus one grease for the barrel walls."