Leaderboard

so quick history, Timex had the #24 and decided to add the date feature and thus the #25. Which is built much like the 24 but with a few mods. fast forward tot he 70's and they had the bright idea ( I blame the bean counters) that they could make the movement for less money by changing the click. Yeah they changed it alright and made it out of a thin bit of spring steel and it is the first part to wear. Also the they elongated the shaft of the fourth wheel. This allowed for the movements to be fitted into deeper cases and other such changes they were making at the time. All in all the method Timex used was to have a base model that could be added on to add other features to the watch. They even did did with the cases latter on. Well you see I have too much Timex in my head.:)

Well, not really magic hands, just behaving rather strangely. I serviced an ETA 251.262 out of a nice Tissot Martini Racing I'd acquired. The movement was very stiff and did not work. The small second hand was pulsating back and forth though. It was very interesting though after the service and putting in the new battery. The sub dial second hand went backwards, as did the chronograph second hand. The sub dial split second hand worked correctly. I stripped it down again, reassembled it and this time the big minute recording hand and large chrono second hand went backwards, but the sub dial second hand worked ok. I stripped it down again and tested the stators up against a compass. Each one was magnetised but the polarity varied. I guessed it could only be that was causing the problem. I demagnetised each stator, drawing each one the same way up and away from the demagnetiser. Now all the hands go clockwise, except the split second which isn't working at all now. Oh what fun. By the way, never use a demagnetiser on a quartz watch.

no you are working on a 105 and it does not make much difference. You have the date wheel assembly upside down is my guess. Take a look at it and note that one side has a tapered tip. This is the side that goes in first. Be-sure to place this in before inserting the cannon pinion too. Speaking of which there are actually two parts there. So before you install anything else slip on the cannon pinion and pull the stem to set mode. It should turn very freely will little to no resistance. If it does than want you should do is split the two parts with the use of a very thin blade such as an xacto knife. The one I use has been blunted to prevent cutting myself. Once apart dot the inner tube with oil and refit the two parts. Retest and they should be nice and smooth. If you still feel it is tight or not just right have a look at the minute wheel assembly teeth as they may have worn due to the tight fit of the cannon pinion. BTW: I just happen to have one of these "Coke Bezel" divers on the bench and one was completed last week. These are quite popular because Timex re-issued them as quartz with Indiglo about a year or two ago.

Perhaps this will help. You can find the entire M25 Service manual here: https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B-IKHN7WFKiwLVFQRjQyUUV0bmM Look for 25.pdf.

Oh I didn't know that. I've used bergeon kt22 it on my gaskets with no detriment (as of yet), and although it is a heavy grease, I don't use it on rotors. Maybe I should try the fomblin grease.... J