Leaderboard

So today I received the set of spare Landeron movements I had bought last week. I received some spares, and 4 incomplete movements, various models, and a dial. Movements are completely dirty, will definitively need a good clean on my Elma, and the dial has also some patina, which actually I like. Here the pics: A very fast clean (by no means to make it working perfectly) and I put some parts together with the best looking movement, to have a working watch. I do not have proper cases for the chronographs as of yet, but I am still looking. Here my 3 chronos: The Walker and the Bovet are Landeron based, while the Gigandet is a Valjoux 7733 Sorry for the low quality pics, my mobile phone is just too bad...

Here's a pic or two of the watch with the new strap fitted. The strap is actually 18mm but it fits just fine and is just the kind I was looking for. I am really happy with the way it turned out. I actually got the strap from Timpsons for just under £20, they actually have a nice selection of good quality leather straps. They offered to fit the strap and if I wasn't happy with the fit they would take it off for me, no obligation. Can't say fairer than that.

I've just completed my latest project, a homage to the Rolex Explorer and Tudor Ranger. The starting point was a 36mm Alpha-branded Explorer homage, equipped with an ST-16 movement (clone of the Miyota 8215, but with hacking and hand winding). This uses the same photo-paper technique as one of my earlier projects, but with a glossy finish this time instead of matte. The dial is similar to a painted 1016 Explorer dial, but with numerals shaped more like those of the modern 14270+ Explorers. It was inspired by the Blaken Submariner. The hands are vintage Tudor Ranger style, although the second hand is Explorer style. I cut the luminous indices from Jessup #7550 luminous tape. It's not perfect, but it's the best so far, and I'm quite happy with it.

It's not the first time I've heard that.

Here you go.

Im around - workshop has been very busy :)

That should work well.

I used to be one of them the misses reckons anyway :D

No luck with the crystal also all my spare pocket watch hands are 8mm long but appear to have the correct post size 0.35 (see pic) If this is OK send me a PM with a forwarding address & I will send.

Hi BL. Regarding cleaning dirt from the hairline crack, I use neat household bleach on a cotton bud to clean enamel dials and found it works very well. Make sure that you give it a good wash with water to remove all traces of bleach afterwards. I haven't tried this, but how about touching up the chipped area with Tipp-ex then applying a little lacquer with a very fine paintbrush.

I will look in my stash tomorrow for the sub second. I purchased a few of the bay some time ago & I may have a spare one. I will also look through my stock of pocket watch crystals.

I've had the same experience with a Waltham 16s size watch - running erratically in different positions - and it was most certainly the jewel, this time a balance wheel jewel. Cheers, Will

LOCTITE DON"T use SUPERGLUE. Medium strength (Loctite 243) is perfect as you might want to undo it again. For extra strength Loctite 638 . Loctite does release with the aid of heat but why make things complicated.

Personally I use Loctite 638 retaining compound. It takes a a good hold and is safer to use than super glue. Only use a tiny spot applied by an oiler ot cocktail stick, any excess is easily wiped off without attaching yourself or any other object to the stem. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/380851837556?adgroupid=&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fipn%253Dicep%2526icep_id%253D67%2526mtid%253D1673%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D50600204586_563391%2526icep_item_id%253D380851837556%2526itemid%253D380851837556%2526icep_meta_categ_id%253D11700%2526icep_etrs%253DY%2526icep_epid%253D-999%2526icep_ctlg%253D-999%2526icep_cond%253DNew%2526targetid%253D75951450906%2526rlsatarget%253D%2526rpc%253D0.18%2526rpc_upld_id%253D55373%2526device%253Dt%2526icep_msku_flag%253Dn%2526icep_cbt%253Dn%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526loc%253D%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D%2526adgroupid%253D%2526gclid%253DCjwKEAjw-IOwBRD1wrTC27fSjFISJABUDZ17lYAJI3_D8CobpJxtJPRNVdSYJVg0zxgQApHTwFJRABoCsRXw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D899998054707&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&device=t&chn=ps&campaignid=&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

I genuinely appreciate all your comments. My conclusion is that stripping down this watch and diagnosing its faults was a great lesson, even though the repair will have to be delayed indefinitely. At least now I know that if this watch has any chance of running ever again without major disbursement it must be through a donor movement. Following this experience I have disassembled/reassembled successfully a working 17 jewel Tavannes. P.S.: The photos that I added to my previous post seem to have disappeared. (I wonder why?)

Clockboy, perhaps those vintage watches that can't be restored can at least be reused by making new dials for them? Just consider them as a source of movements and cases? Geo, I also hope fading will not be an issue. My previous two printed-dial projects involved many layers of lacquer on the finished dial, and that lacquer is supposed to provide some UV protection. This dial is also lacquered, but with only about four coats. On the other hand, I have inkjet-printed photos hanging on my wall that have been there for 10 years and don't seem to have faded. So between that, and the fact that I won't be wearing this watch outside in bright sun all that much, I'm hoping that fading won't be an issue. Of course if it was a Rolex dial that faded, it would be called patina, not fading. :-)