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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/19/15 in all areas

  1. Welcome to the forum Edmund, I'm sure you will enjoy being part of this community. Thank you for posting good quality pictures from the start, it's great to see what you are doing. I hope you don't mind me saying the watch you are working on is not the "perfect candidate" to start on, as the faults that it has are far from easy for someone starting out to fix. My advice would to purchase a fairly large, but fully working movement and practice on servicing it by disassembling and reassembling it a few times. Fault finding and fixing is best left until you can service a watch properly first. The watch you have just now would be good for acquiring the delicate touch required when handling tools and fitting wheels and bridges without damaging pinions.
    2 points
  2. All, I've posted two new pdf versions of the complete eBook for K&D's 1910 "Staking Tools and How To Use Them" in my dropbox (download links below). The first is an improved version of the one previously available with high resolution (1200dpi) images only. I found a mistake in the front cover image and corrected it. Otherwise, the book is the same as before. I've also created a new lower resolution version with full text search. The images are 600dpi and still look good, but the file is now half the size of the high rez version and includes the ability to search the text. I tested the text search in many different ways and the quality of the OCR by Adobe Acrobat it surprisingly good. I couldn't find a single mistranslation. Neither of the files are small, but it's 163 pages so that part isn't surprising. Enjoy! Tom
    1 point
  3. That is a good learning piece you have as it has lots of issues. The problem you might have is the balance staff replacement as it is difficult to source the correct replacement. Also fitting the staff you will need the correct tools. I have looked in my "Generale Resorts" catalog and there is not an exact sized spring. However the following may well fit: GR 6305 H 2.20 Thickness 0.22 Length 520 Dia. 17 GR 6307 H 2.20 Thickness 0.22 Length 560 Dia. 18 GR 6310 H 2.20 Thickness 0.22 Length 620 Dia. 19
    1 point
  4. Hello, Edmund, and welcome. I've been participating in this forum for several weeks now. I can't always tell who's a hobbyist (like me) and who's a professional, but everyone has been helpful, kind, or (when the situation called for it) commiserating. You can buy a replacement roller jewel at Cousins. You'll need to measure the gap in the pallet fork to get the right size. Look up my previous recent posting, in which I learned how to do that. I'm now working up the courage, and looking for the time, to do the impulse jewel implantation. I am told it is challenging.
    1 point
  5. Thats right. Its not cost effective to ship such a heavy item internationally. I've asked my friend about the drawing but he doesn't make it. All the thing he need is the general dimension of the bench (HxDxW), he estimated the rest using photos from website. Sorry for late reply
    1 point
  6. I don,t know if I did this correctly but when I replaced pallet stone I found one out of my stash that was the same size as the one still in the folk. I then attached it at the same height as the existing stone using this gem of a tool I found on the Bay a few years ago. It worked so I presume this is the method. P.S Notice the price $3.35 what a bargain.
    1 point
  7. Been there done that as they say :) . Good to now that it.s easy to find .According to Ofrei .All of this pallet fork should work . Unfortuanly not 2789 @Andyclient BUL 1373 30, BUL 1373.11, BUL 1373.50, BUL 1412.11, BUL 1413.10, BUL 1413.11, BUL 1413.30, ETA 2801, ETA 2801-1, ETA 2801-2, ETA 2804, ETA 2804-1, ETA 2804-2, ETA 2805, ETA 2806, ETA 2807, ETA 2810, ETA 2811, ETA 2812, ETA 2813, ETA 2816, ETA 2816-1, ETA 2817, ETA 2819, ETA 2821, ETA 2821-1, ETA 2821-2, ETA 2821R, ETA 2824, ETA 2824-1, ETA 2824-2, ETA 2824R, ETA 2825, ETA 2825R, ETA 2826, ETA 2827, ETA 2827R, ETA 2830, ETA 2830R, ETA 2831, ETA 2831R, ETA 2832, ETA 2832R, ETA 2834, ETA 2834-1 CD1, ETA 2834-2, ETA 2834R, ETA 2836, ETA 2836-2, ETA 2836R, ETA 2837, ETA 2837R, ETA 2838, ETA 2838R, ETA 2839, ETA 2839R, LON 631.1, LON 632.1, LON 632.2, LON 633.1, LON 633.2, LON 634.1, LON 634.2, LON 636.1, LON 636.2, MOV 341, TIS 3103, TIS 3104, TIS 3108, ETA 2836-1, SEL SW200, SEL SW220
    1 point
  8. It could be a lot worse. Something like an Omega would be three or four times that price. Yes, it's item 710 and is used on many ETA calibres so it is a 2801 part. You can download complete parts lists and service sheets for ETA calibres from ETA or Cousins. When refitting the fork, use plenty of magnification to see that the pinion is engaged before tightening the screws. You can also lift the fork up and down to be sure it's always engaged. Really, I do this with any wheels, forks, etc. Best to get the base movement running and be happy with it before moving onto any complications such as date, auto or chronograph so don't be tempted to fit the date mechanism while waiting for your new part. Cheers, Chris Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. I have a similar scope I use it above my lathe and for really close work to see what is actually happening.
    1 point
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