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Everything posted by hokavan

  1. Exactly. I'm looking for replacement on the bay...
  2. Thank you so much for your help. I will try it
  3. Hi all I'm servicing a Seikosha movement 17 jewels with caliber no. is 297 (I guess). It is a movement of vintage Seiko Champion watch. I have cleaned parts by ultrasonic; lubricated it. For the balance wheel shock assembly, I pegged the cap jewels (top and bottom), lubricated it with 9010 oil. After installing the balance wheel, it tick and tock. The upper and lower pivot of the BW is in the house of the shock assemblies. I also demagnitized the BW The problem is: the beat per hour is 21600 but as far as I know it should be 18000 (see photo). And it varies with different positions (see in the video). The rate is very bad with several hundreds seconds offset. So now I really need your help to fix this problem. The BW pivot is in the top shock assembly
  4. I wonder why dont you use the quartz movement tester? In similar case, I often test the movement itself before placing another good/sealed battery
  5. I'm going to clean all parts by ultrasonic. I haven't used oil on the pivots of pallet (both upper and lower). For the fine tooth combe, can you suggest alternative way because I dont have the comb
  6. Exactly. By somehow 2nd round of the hairspring is stuck in the curb pin of the regulator. So it made very strange rate as shown in the video. That's right way I've gone through. Finally I have removed the stuck hairspring from the curb pin. Now the problem is the balance wheel stops after a few beats. I've tried to clean the pallet, lever pivot, demagnetized the balance wheel. Nothing works. The balance wheel still stops after 1-2 beats. Still need some more advice the the case.
  7. Hi I’m trying to service a Seiko 7s26 and encountered a problem of strange rate as shown in the video http:// The rate should be 21600 but it varies from 12000 to 25200 and sometimes could not be detected. I’v check both pivots of balance wheel. They are in correct position. Please look into the video and give me advice Thanks Khoa
  8. The pallet fork moves with each rotation of the escape wheel. With photo can not judge if it is evenly lying or not. However you can check yourself by gently notch the fork from both directions. If it moves with escape wheel it seems to be okay. Remind that you should check the pivot of the pallet fork before tightening the screws. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. AndyD from your photos, the movement is 0S20 not 0S60. the stem part number for both is 065-453.
  10. I don't have tools to remove the balance and install it on the old bridge. It could be the end- shake problems because if I pressed down the end of bridge it would run faster. I was looking for complete balance and bridge for ETA 2804 but was unable to find it. Could you please suggest any other way to fix it? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. Yes you are right. The roller was not in right position. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Hi all, I broke the pivot of balance wheel on ETA 2804-2. I bought a generic complete balance wheel with bridge for ETA 2824-2 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/262234041099?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and tried to install it without any difficulty. There is only a difference between the new and old one is the shock assemblies (Incabloc vs Novodiac). In the photo below, the new one is the yeallow on the right hand side. My question are: - Is the complete balance wheel and bridge replaceable between those movements? - If Yes, after installed, the balance wheel has swung a little bit then stop. What is the reason? How to fix it? Thank you
  13. Hi Michael. Thank you for your helpful info. Definitely go to this market and museum also. Sound like heaven vinn Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. I 'm going to Geneva this month and wondering if there is tools shops especially for oiling over there. I'm looking for decent tools with reasonable price. Sharing information is highly appreciated. Thank you Khoa
  15. I agree with@oldhippy its a snap case back and could be opened by knife blade
  16. I haven't oiled any point. The screw on the lower bridge is tighten with adequate force. Maybe I'll dismantle the transfer and reduction wheels Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. Hi all, I've got a FC watch which used a SW300.1 movement to repair. The rotor is stuck/stiff and its hard to rotate. I've dissemble self-winding mechanism and oscilating and ball bearing from the movement. As you can see in the video clip, the transfer wheel seems to be stuck when I rotate the rotor. Please give me your suggestion for this case. Should I buy a new ball bearing? Thanks IMG_0047.MOV
  18. I agree with Ginger. Flo, you should dissemble the keyless work. Following link which is a glossary of watch parts could help you. http://www.timezonewatchschool.com/WatchSchool/Glossary/Glossary%20-%20Keyless%20Works/glossary%20-%20keyless%20works.shtml Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. when I wind it, the click is working. I can fully wind it. The missing screw is broken. Its cap is broken away, its body remains in the barrel bridge. Hands can be turned freely. I will dissemble it soon...
  20. Hi guys I've got a Louis Erard to be repaired. It doesn't tick. Hand winding is good. Balance is good. What can be the problem? What do I have to check first? Please drop me some advice.
  21. Very helpful @ausimax. I'll try to find and fix Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  22. Could you show me the bridge screw, pleaseSent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. It's a Sellita caliber Sw240-1. I've open the case back but found nothing happen with the rotor. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Hi guys I've got a like new watch to repair. Its rotor stuck. Hand winding is okay. Because its still has protection pad on the case back so I need some advice identifying the problem before opening. Thanks Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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