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Ah no! In Switzerland we have an excellent apprentice scheme and it is the teeth of the apprentice that are used.

This is one that I picked up a while ago to restore and send on its way. A Cortebert 25 jewel auto probably from the 70's or early 80's. As you can see it was in need of a little TLC on the outside.... And by the look of it on the inside too. With the back off the movement looks pretty clean. It's an ETA 2783, a good solid workhorse, and apart from a couple of light scratches to the rotor and auto wind bridge, it doesn't appear to have been abused. With the auto bridge off the scratch can now be seen to extend to the ratchet wheel as well. Looks like someone slipped undoing the rotor screw and skated their screw driver almost to the edge of the movement. They must have been pushing quite hard. I guess they didn't get as far as trying to remove the dial. All pristine under here. Calendar works out of the way and layout of the key-less works exposed. Dial side stripped out. Just the balance pivot setting to come out. Flipped back over now and the balance and cock removed. With the remainder of the bridges, and the barrel out, the going train layout is revealed. This is the under side of the auto bridge with the reversing wheel cock removed to expose the two reverser wheels on the right, and two reduction gears on the left. The fully stripped auto bridge. I think that this might be the missing centre post that Tim was referring to in his post on the ETA 2873. And the balance and cock go back onto the main plate (minus the jewel settings) ready for the Elma. That's everything out of the cleaner and ready to go back together. The mainspring was in really good shape so after a very light application of grease, and a few dabs of 8213 in the barrel wall recesses it goes back into the barrel. The balance jewels are then installed with a bit of 9010 and the free movement of the balance wheel checked. Also the state of the hairspring and it's proximity to the balance cock is checked. All is well here so the balance and cock come back off and go to one side whilst the rest of the train goes together. Going train back in. I just love how bright and shiny it all comes out of the wash. Barrel and bridges back in place. HP1300 for the barrel pivots, 9020 for the second wheel, 9010 for the rest. With the ratchet wheel, crown wheel, and click in place I can now check the recoil on the escape wheel. All good. Pallets back in place and lock and draw checked, then a touch of 941 on the exit pallet, transferred to the escape wheel teeth by gently working the pallet fork manually. Then drop in the balance, and off she goes. It's then just a matter of reassembling the calendar works, key-less works, and the auto wind module, and the mechanics are done. And there's a nice drop of ETA goodness to confirm that all is well. A very gentle clean for the dial and hands, polishing of the case, and a new armoured crystal, and things look a whole lot better than they started. I hope that this proves useful to somebody. This has now had a 24 hour test drive and has managed to stay within a couple of seconds of spot on on the wrist. I really like the look of this one and it's a very comfy size, I almost decided to hang on to it but I just can't justify another at the moment, so it is now on eBay. If anyone is interested I will post up the item number although it should be easy enough to find. Marc.

Its funny how despite having handled and still handling so many timepieces i have never bought a watch brand new for myself. So with a few ideas in mind i decided to bite the bullet and say yes, treat yourself :) Whilst i do still love my Omegas,JLC's and Rolex's, they are all pre-owned and have always been someone else's first. My first watch which i bought myself was actually a Casio but that was well over 25 years ago now and i felt the need to finally have something i can happily say is mine, and mine first. The problem i had is likely the problem we all have as watch lovers, and that's choice, so with a few key factors in mind i thought about and searched for my perfect everyday wear watch. Its been a long tradition in the male side of my family to buy a Seiko, my great grandfather and grandfather both had Seiko's as has my own father ( in fact he has had 3 ;) ). I myself have owned a few good Seiko's, again these have been used, never new. So in keeping with a family tradition i set about finding one that was just right and ticked the boxes. Requirements > Good Looking - Both daily and Dress Reliable Quality Movement Tough & Waterproof Value for money Fully Automatic with day & date Comfortable This is what i found and fell in love with..... Seiko SNZF17 K1 - aka Sea Urchin It's still very factory fresh and running a little fast ( i expect it to settle down after a few days of wear ) but she fits like a glove. The watch is stunning quality for the money ( £90 with free shipping :) ) with a very good strap that is heavy but comfortable. It is still early days but i have to say im impressed with the quality, and for what i paid i think i have a good daily wearer. I may be investing in another Seiko in the future ;) Just sharing my thoughts :)

Yes this can be tricky. If winding in by hand I find it useful to place the T out of the hole and whilst you are winding in it will slip round (it does this naturally) and when you have several coils in then you can push the T further round until it engages the hole, then continue winding the spring in. Not easy but works well after some practice. If winding in by hand then don't pull the coils to tight. And I am aware that some repairer purists may scowl at me for ever suggesting winding in a spring by hand, and they would probably be right :) The old mainspring winders (similar to the ones clockies use) are the correct tool to use I believe - I have to say though that I have never used those, I confess that I put these ones in by hand being careful not to kink or stress the spring. You can tell when a spring has been badly coiled in by hand - when you remove it it goes into a cone shape.

I must admit I did spit a bit today when I stabbed my finger with a graver. :pulling-hair-out: