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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/04/15 in all areas

  1. Assuming the watch doesn't run but the main spring is fully wound (reasonable assumption as you are trying to let the spring down), the fact that the watch runs when additional power is applied through the crown suggests that there is unlikely to be too much amiss with the balance / escapement, rather that there is excess power loss through the gear train sufficient to stop the movement. Even a totally worn out main spring should get the balance moving (albeit with low amplitude) if the train is in good order. The possible causes of power loss within the train are numerous and include; 1. Dried up / old lubricant or other contaminant fouling the pivots 2. Bent, badly worn, or broken pivots 3. Cracked or chipped pivot jewels 4. Insufficient end shake or misalignment of wheels due to poor workmanship / damaged plates or bridges This is pretty much the order of frequency in which I encounter power loss issues with degraded lubricant and dirt accounting for probably >80% of the problems. My first course of action would be to strip and thoroughly clean the movement which will solve 1. in my list. Then a careful inspection of each part under magnification prior to assembly should identify any issues described in 2. and 3. which could then be remedied. Then I would reassemble the train all the way from the barrel through to the escape wheel and check for free running. I do exactly as Geo describes in another post, I use a rubber bulb type air blower to gently puff air onto the rim of the escape wheel. If all is well the whole train should move easily all the way back to the barrel, and it should work in both directions. If it doesn't then I strip it back down again and reassemble one wheel at a time, testing at each step for free movement to identify where the problem starts. I can then try and work out what the actual problem is and how to rectify it. Finally, once I am happy that the train is free running, the click and ratchet wheel go back on and I install the pallet. At this stage, with just a small amount of power on the main spring (less than a quarter of a turn usually), the pallet should snap across between the bankings when nudged with a dry oiler if all is well. If I get to this stage and all is fine then I would expect the watch to run when the balance is installed. If it doesn't then my focus usually shifts to the balance. Hope this helps.
    2 points
  2. Here's another I am working on at the moment (please excuse the not so good pics): Basically sound, no lifting varnish, but the usual age spots, blooms etc. Immersed into IPA & gently brushed with a sable brush for a couple of minutes, rinsed in distilled water for another couple of mins, then dipped in HG silver dip for a minute. Finally rinsed & dried: I would not suggest that this method is completely safe or will work every time, but the results have been good so far. Just don't try it on a friends Patek - particularly if he's a big barsteward!
    1 point
  3. I've found the ultrasonic cleaner often removes the gasket in one piece, or complete destroys it ... one or the other. But in saying that, crown and caseback seals should be replaced when they get to that stage of their life, trying to save them is fairly pointless. Seals are cheap, repairing moisture damage is not.
    1 point
  4. Crystal should be - Seiko 310T11ANS0 or Sternkreuz XAC311.624. Gasket - Seiko FH2920B03.
    1 point
  5. Influenced by Lawson's post 'Carl Zeiss - Eye Mag Pro' I bought a cheaper 6x 350mm pair of Galilean binoculars from China. These are intended for dental use but any dentist trying to use a 6x magnification mutst have control of the head position far better than I can manage. The viewed object was wobbling by about 50% of the 45 mm field of view. The optical quality is excellent and so I have turned them into a binocular microscope using a heavy duty flexible support with standard end pieces as sold for microphones. Here in the bench mode with a Benson Aquatite movement - ample working distance. The only work that was needed is shown: a support that fits firmly into the mike clip and a pair of eye cups with adaptor rings to match the eyepieces of the binoculars. Here mounted on my lathe base-board for some micro-drilling.
    1 point
  6. New parts arrived today and once fitted the problem persisted ?!? So with my sherlock holmes hat on i went by the numbers through everything i could think of that COULD cause the mainspring to jar with the intermediate wheel ( not center wheel as previously stated ). It's funny because it is nearly always the smallest thing that stomps me and this time it was no exception, the cause......the click spring screw. I never really saw or paid attention to it whilst stripping the watch as it looked correct, however i foolishly took for granted the last person to service the watch would have assembled it correctly. The damage to the old mainspring barrel was not from poor mesh or debris but an over long screw tip knocking the barrel teeth. With the problem now known i have replaced the screw with one more suited and the drivetrain was now free again to move as it should. Funny to think that such a small deviation could mask itself as so many possible errors. The original balance is now super clean and functioning exactly as it should ( at long last ), so i can now keep the new balance as a future spare. The watch had come to me in a really poor condition with badly damaged casing , scratched glass, damaged strap, and a rusted movement with gremlins running rampant. I am pleased to say after much tlc and patience she now runs super smooth with fairly good looks for her age i think :) Of course you lot just love your pictures so here you go..... Omega 1968 - Gold plated De Ville Automatic - Caliber 1002 - New Lizard strap :) She still has some scars but far better than what she started as :)
    1 point
  7. The buyer has to return the Item and supply proof of postage to Ebay in order to proceed with the claim. Check the feedback they have left for others and feed back they have received, it can give you clues to what type of person you are dealing with, if they fail to return the item to you the worst they can do is leave negative feedback. They have to follow correct procedure in order to receive a refund, Its also worth noting before you send Items any serial numbers and take photos, of the item and package in case they try and substitute a broken faulty item for the item you sent. How ebay deal with these cases is quite often disappointing and leaves the whole sight open to various scams and dishonest users. set your buyer requirement settings to the toughest possible. Good luck
    1 point
  8. I drove up to Derbyshire today and, by prior arrangement, met up with forum member GarethS - and a great pleasure it was. We chatted for an hour and compared watches - I'd brought up some RR pocket watches to show, and I was mightily impressed with a lovely Longines of Gareths. Nice place - Buxton; good bloke - Gareth; great watches - both of us! Must do it more often! Will
    1 point
  9. Never seen one either - very interesting! Tip: Returning from the pub is always twice as far as going to the pub - but sometimes longer :D
    1 point
  10. Well, that's the first one of those I've seen close up - what a cute little thing. Wish I had one to measure how far it is to the pub and back.
    1 point
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