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Hi, this was my method. Be it right or wrong, it worked. Took absolutely ages. Just to lower a jewel 0.3mm. Jeez This was the problem. Top pivot totally gone. Tried everywhere for one ..... even India, Philipines etc. This is the Jewel I am going to install...... Had to make a hole to take the new bush to allow reaming as the bush is 1.9 mm...... this is an old Gash plate Let the reaming begin............ Jewel in new bush.... Inserting Jewel into Bush Removing Bush from Plate Jewel in Bush Now the Bridge...... Preparing to Ream.... Used reamers in steps of 0.1mm to increase aperture for Bush..... Bridge & Jewel in Bush....... Insert Bush into Bridge....... Bush in Bridge....... Phew, all done and back on watch............ Laborious, but saves another watch. Overall, the finished works look no worse than the patina on the watch already

Pick up this from the flea market for 7 quid, it not working. Its a bubble back, held by 4 grub screws, some of the screw are missing and that one on the left was something else. Take some doing to get the case split. I was not sure how to get the stem out so I carefully remove the dial to see if there any screws,to turn or lever to press. But there is none, under the dial... what I can see is the Setting Lever Spring broken, that one reason why this watch didn't work. Finally I brave myself to pull the crown, well it detached.. so its this type of fitting. Here the movement.. ETA 1080.. the Setting Lever Spring available from Cousin, and I'll strip this movement to check what else needed. For sure I need those grub screws to hold the case, but that not part of ETA but Gotham.. Will update, as I strip it further... and will source the parts once I know what else needs replacing. The main spring may not be in a good shape.. :( Affnan

Lighter fluid is good. Not sure about Geo's 'lighted' fuel though. :crazysmile:

The lift is 52 for that cal and also the 782-2. :)

Woohoo! Look what I won last night! I'm sorry if any of you was bidding but I had to have this to go with my manual winder.

Ofrei has something similar I bought a year ago. I couldn't make it for the cost. Esslinger has similar: http://www.ofrei.com/page416.html

Hello all, I've just signed up to reply to this thread, military watches are a bit of a thing for me :-) The watch looks original, apart from a replacement crown, from the side view it seems the fixed bars are still in place too, as for the engraving, you just can't tell, some of the various ATP's have shockingly awful engraving. To quote from 'British Military Timepieces' by Konrad Knirim: "Some watches are stamped ATP whilst most are engraved; the quality of the engraving has no bearing on the authenticity of the watch, if it looks too good to be true it probably is." Its hard to tell from this one how old the engraving might be, in the one close-up of the back the engraved markings look clean, by which I mean no skin gunk etc. but it also looks like a scratch on the back goes through the tail of the 9, possibly indicating its been there for a while, I suppose the only way to get a really close look is to buy it.......... As to the fixed bars, of the 20 manufacturers in this section of the book (and I just noticed it's credited to Ian Darge) two are stated to have used springbars instead of the proscribed fixed bar, and from the pictures Corbert used fixed bars, sadly it doesn't say which two used springbars. The 'Dirty Dozen' watches are different thing altogether these are also known as the WWW's as that is the title of the MOD standard issued to suppliers, it will also be stamped on the back and stands for Watch, Wristlet, Waterproof. There is a great website here, showing examples of all of the 12. Sometimes a WWW grade watch would be downgraded if it no longer meet the WWW standard for some reason (e.g. a fixed bar and lug breaking and being soldered back in), then the WWW would be struck through on the back and ATP engraved in instead. A common misconception about the WWW's is that they are the World War 2 watch, most of them were not received by the MOD until late 1945 and it is considered unlikely that they were issued for use in the war. If you want an Army watch that could have seen service in WW2, go for an ATP :-) Oh, and the way I found Mark and his great video's what when he did a replacement balance staff for a CYMA WWW. And if anyone wants to get a full set of the Dirty Dozen in one go, one is for sale on the Military Watch Resource forum, which is great place to go to discuss military watches. I have no connection with the watches for sale. sorry for piling right in on my first post :biggrin:

Ro63rto. Think its designed to sit on a desk or table, its only 11" high. Keep us updated Don, been thinking of something similar myself.

When I change out the old solutions (L&R) in my Elma the old solutions go into a second set of jars. If ever I get a really dirty movement to work on it goes through a complete wash/rinse/second rinse/dry cycle using the old stuff before repeating in the new. The cleaner still seems to remove the dirt fairly well even when you can barely see through it. For cases and bracelets I use Morrison's own brand general house hold cleaner 1:1 in the ultrasonic. It's pretty powerful stuff at that concentration so a 15 minute cycle is normally all that is needed for even the heaviest wrist cheese deposits. It's cheap too. Then just a rinse in very hot water.

The last time I used my winder I added a light coating of grease on the winding arbour & it seemed to release with ease.

Here are my British army ATP,s to date,another eight to go to get the sweet sixteen,these watches were issued at the beginning of WW2 where as the WWW,s are all issued from 45 on,makes you wonder where they have been .