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About nad

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  1. I've something similar to these which I bought a few years ago on the recommendation of an earlier post to this forum. (Probably other sellers that do the same.) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292120239715 Work well for watch hands and small second hands on some of the vintage watches that I've an interest in. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  2. Great information from all, I've learned a lot by following this thread. Thank you WLS1971 & OH for sharing your information. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  3. Good advice in prior posts. I've the C version of the type of staking set that the video that video in OH's posting has a link to. The D version has the addition of the base for the tool. The Unruh-Max, the tool for balance staff removal, appears at 1:05 in the video. It doesn't come as part of the C set and I don't think it's part of the D set as standard. There is one currently on e-bay UK which looks to be ok. Item 153398604657 (I've no connection to this item.) I bought mine on e-bay a few years back following a prior post on this forum. It can be used with most staking sets not just Bergeon branded sets. I have used mine on a few pocket watches. The K&D tool that you have a link to is a different tool but fundemenly is designed for the same task as the Unruh-Max. That is they are balance staff removal tools. Whichever tool you choose to use to remove the staff, you will need a decent staking set of punches and anvils to rivet the new staff on to the balance wheel. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  4. I bought cousins part numbers B36683 and B36687 some time ago when they were offer. In my limited experience with mantle clocks, they've been fine for the KWM bushes that I've been using without denting the bank balance too much. NAD Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  5. Starting with a time only clocks and progressing through strike, chime etc is good advice. The second clock that I worked on had a Hermle strike movement with a floating balance. I got it rebuilt eventually but the added complexity of the strike train was nearly a step too far too soon for me. Took me a long while to get everything back in the right place and was a test of patients but satisfying when done. As far as cleaning fluid, an alternative is the clock cleaning fluid provided by Priory Polishes. Someone on this forum recommend it a while ago, stinks a bit but is not flammable like petrol so is safer to use, is reasonably priced and gets things cleaned nicely. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  6. Thank you for the link, had not seen this before. I can see it being a useful read. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  7. Thanks before the advice OH on the platform escapement. I'd also not considered that the barrel arbour may have had a thread on it that had been ground off. I'm guessing that someone has modified a barrel from an earlier movement that had a thread on it rather than one where the key is held in place with a set screw. Will try my hand at tidying it up. Photo above gives a side view of the barrel arbour taken as I dismantled the movement. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  8. Morning Graham I'm based at the other end of the county, had a similar experience to yours a while ago when the Automotive sector had one it's periodic downturns. A change of direction worked for me and I wish you well with your chosen direction. I'm a "hobby watch repairer" myself, but there are many members of this forum who contribute with their knowledge and experience that will complement your chosen learning path. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  9. Currently working on what I believe to be an early 80’s Elliott 8 day clock that's in need of some attention. While it was running when it came into my possession it was losing 20 minutes over 5 days so needed some attention. She's not had the easiest of lives and it showed. At some stage it looks like someone has taken a Dremel to it, I'm guessing to try and “Polish” things up but they only managed to grind parts such as the end of the barrel arbour. Don't ask me why people do this sort of thing, I've no idea. (Picture attached.) Fortunately damage was limited to the end of the barrel arbour that's used for winding so not too much of a problem. I also managed to straighten the end of the arbour that's used to adjust the time with a little gentle pressure. Guessing it will be weakened but it's now straight and no need to look for spares and hen's teeth. Have cleaned up the case as best that I can and she's looking a lot better. The movement has been striped and cleaned. There's some wear in some of the pivot holes in the plates which is not a surprise as I don't think that this one has ever been properly serviced. These will be re-bushed with KWM system bushes once they arrive from H S Walsh later this week. Next step is to strip and clean the platform escapement which will be a first for me. The balance, as expected, is a lot bigger to any watch that I've worked on so can't see too much of an issue apart from gaining access to the end stones to clean and oil. My issue is that I'm not too clear how they are held in place. (See picture attached.) Anyone come across something like this before who can offer some advice? Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  10. Before replacing the movement, it might be worth checking if the hands are making contact with each other at some stage in their rotation. Repaired a Tissot quartz a while back which was losing time as a result of a slight drag as the second hand passed over the minute hand. When worn it lost a little time but when left on the bedside table for a while it sometimes stopped. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  11. That's the idea with the thickness and yes you're right that a micrometer would do the same. I didn't notice that the other tool was tweezer like so it may be that it's a watch hand holding tool rather than as my first thought to measure spring height. See link below for one currenty on sale to allow you to compare and decide for yourself. https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-30004-brass-watch-hand-holding-tweezers/ Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  12. I've something very similar somewhere, came as part of a lot one at auction a few years back. One could be used to measure the spring thickness while the other would be used to measure the spring height. NAD Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  13. Agree Dumont tweezers are worth investing in. I use them for watch work while I use Vetus one's sourced from Cousins when working on clocks and their larger part's. I don't get too fixated with brands however. I've unbranded Swiss made vintage watch mainspring winders and cannon pinion remover that are more than adequate both bought at a fraction of the cost of new Bergeon branded ones. Tend to stay away from Chinese tools but have both a time grapher and watch hand levers both of which I'm more than happy with. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  14. Thank you for that OH appreciate the information, she's older than I thought. Crickhowell would tie in, not too far away and I believe there were family connections in the Brecon area. Wasn't aware of the Brian Lomas book that you mentioned, will try and find a copy for myself for future reference. My mother had some work done on the clock about 20 years ago. It still keeps good time when running but, given that it's not been cleaned for a while and the suspension spring looks nibbled, I don't intend to run her regularly untill that's been worked on. As a young lad I remember the clock in the home of one of my grand aunt's, it seemed huge and the pendulum fascinated me. More than happy for you to move the thread to a more appropriate area. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
  15. Hi OH That's YNISPENLWCH We've always thought that it was a corruption of the Welsh for Ynyspenllwch which was a couple of miles away from the farm. It used to be the site of an early iron and tinplate works back in the early 1800's which I'm guessing is about the age of the clock. Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
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