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Seiko NH36 Walkthrough This walkthrough complements the 7S26/7S36 excellent walkthrough on this site by Lawson (http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/682-seiko-7s26a-complete-service-walkthrough/). I strongly recommend to check out Lawson's walkthrough first). This is a more recent movement based on the said 7S26. It is a 24 jewels day/date, center seconds, movement with hacking capabilities and manual wind. The ligne is like its predecessors ~12. It is popular in the new Seiko models and Invicta watches among others. In brief, former movements didn't have hack or manual wind. Still, several parts are interchangeable with the older 7Sxx series. Here is the service data: 6810_Seiko NH3 Series Part Sheet.pdf My first step here will be to remove the "oscillating weight" and balance and place in a safe place. Those parts could be easily damaged so we put them out of harm's way. Starting on the bottom side, normal removal of "snap for day star with dial ring" Note that the reverse of the snap has indentations to fit a small screwdriver and lift it clear of the day disc (yellow arrow). This is standard for this movement family and snaps, day disc and date rings are interchangeable. The other picture shows the snap right side up. Under the day disc: Showing the "intermediate wheel for date corrector": Moving on, "date indicator maintaining plate" and related screws. No philips proprietary 4th screw here, all four are the same... Date jumper and date dial: also "Day Date corrector wheel", "hour wheel", "minute wheel and pinion", "date indicator driving wheel" and "intermediate date driving wheel and pinion": "Canon pinion" and the new addition for this movement "Day Date corrector setting transmission wheel E": Removing the "Dial holding spacer" (this one is from a 7S26 not the original one which is thicker): Turn over Baby! Ehem, just the other side view... :) More changes are introduced: We remove the "automatic train bridge" and screws: Notice the added 24th jewel (red arrow) to accommodate the newly designed "second reduction wheel and pinion" (blue arrow) which is much thinner than in previous movements. Removing "ratchet wheel" and its screw (nothing new here): Removing the familiar "Barrel and train wheel bridge with hole jewel frame", notice the familiar "long screws" inherited from previous designs: This bridge has been modified also to add the manual winding mechanism. More on that later. Removing the click and the "fourth wheel and pinion": At this point we remove the rest of the loose bits ("Third wheel and pinion", "scape wheel and pinion" and "barrel complete with mainspring": Then we remove the "Yoke spring" and characteristic "long" screws (different from the ones used in the balance cock and "barrel and train...bridge": Removing the "yoke" and the "setting lever", note how the lever shape has changed from the previous models: The story so far after removing the "center wheel bridge" and its short screws, the "center wheel and pinion", "pallet bridge" and "pallet fork": On the main plate, showing the added "balance stop lever": And the "day-date corrector setting transmission wheel A" (red arrow), "winding pinion" (orange arrow) and "clutch wheel" (blue arrow): Close up of what is left on this end: Removing the "guard for day-date corrector setting transmission wheel" and short screws. Underneath the "day-date corrector setting transmission wheel C" and the "Day-date corrector setting transmission Wheel B": After removing the transmission wheels B and C we are left with the built in wheel on the frame: Notice that transmission wheel "B" (blue arrow) is thinner than its counterpart "C": Next: "Barrel and train wheel bridge with hole jewel frame" disassembly:

Well cousins conveniently removed the branding from the box. (Just a thought: Did someone find it cheaper online and call them out?) But here is a pic of the tag on the lamp itself. Hope this helps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw this technique on you tube a while ago and decided to give it a try today. Old lume is certainly something you do not want to be breathing in, so the safest way is to remove it under water. All you require is an ultrasonic cleaner, a piece of pith wood and a couple of matchsticks. Trim the matchsticks to fit the hole in the hand and delicately press them into the centre of the hands. I find the best way is to lay the hands on the pith wood face up and then press the matchsticks into the hands. Once you have done that, press the matchsticks into the pith wood as in the pictures below. Now take the pith wood complete with hands and float in the top of the water in the ultrasonic tank. The lume on the hands will be facing downwards as in the following pictures. Give the hands a blast for three minutes in the tank, and all the lume will be safely removed leaving spotlessly clean hands ready for the new lume. See below. :)

This made me giggle & not far off the truth

As in another post, I got today, thanks Sunday special delivery, a new Citizen Ecozilla for my collection! But I was able to finish not one but 2 watches today... Before: After replacing movement, stem tube, crown, servicing bezel completely and fitting everything, applying elbow grease freely, and showing diver's extension on band (all original): just the watch: This one had an unidentifiable ETA movement that was replaced with a Ronda 515 H2. Fitted like a charm in the original ring and all. Just like the Swiss Army in the link below. The other watches are here: http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1340-new-adapters-ecozilla-and-autozilla/#entry15412 The crystal will be replaced later on but for now it will have to do! In any case, more than ever the problem now remain: Which one to wear next week? Should I do 2 more for each working day? :) Cheers, Bob

Trouble is, they get addictive...

Hi guys, My newly restored skx something or other (7S26-0030) mid size diver from Seiko, "vintage": By the way, if any one know the equivalence between the SKX (or whatever model number) and the 7SXX-XXXX correspondence/equivalence, please post a table. It would be very much appreciated (and useful). Thank you in advance, Cheers, Bob PS. I retrofitted this watch with the new NH36 (or maybe the NH35 from cousinsUK with day disc added, will have to open again to look. Same thing basically) movement so it now hacks and hand winds (The original movement is complete, working and serviced in a little box in case I want to make it the real thing). The aftermarket dial window is not exactly where it should be cut - a little too low, fixed by repositioning dial feet which I preferred not to do/not worth it -- but at US$6 including shipping I'm not complaining! :) New Movement:

Love Seikos! They are so under-rated as a brand. As I've posted before ... if anyone asked me what brands they should be looking at for their next purchase: the first company I mention is Seiko. Whether the budget is $300 or several thousand (a Grand Seiko), my answer is still the same.

Wonderful job Geo, and great pics as well. I'm glad you left most of the marks on case ... if only some of them could talk: I bet they would have some truly amazing stories to tell.

Correct! I thought that would be harder!! Here she is

Never mind, the cigar is something I won't miss. These new fangled electric things are all the same to me anyway..... black magic!!!!! :devil:

I have been considering purchasing the Bergeon half set of winders. But getting the extra barrels is a problem. I enquired with Cousins if they could supply specific winders as ad on's for example Rolex & ETA calibers as I had seen them being sold in the USA for $85 Cousins contacted on my behalf Bergeon who stated that these specific winders where at present not in their catalog but will be in the future & therefore will be eventually for sale at Cousins. Also the winders that are being sold by the USA supply houses are not Bergeon but will probably work with the Bergeon winders.

Hi Blake, I have that screw I can send it to you. PM me an address since you are almost my neighbor! No need to pay anything. I ordered the whole set from ofrei (in blue) for the watch I "built" for my mother, so among the lot I should find what you need. Cheers, Bob

It transpired that the movement in the watch is a Fontainemelon 602 calibre with cylinder escapement. Here are a few photos, the first two were taken during the dismantling and the rest are the fruits of my labour. I replaced the mainspring and everything else was just given a good clean, lubricated then reassembled. After cleaning and assembly. The porcelain dial was in excellent condition with only the slightest of damage, luckily under the bezel where a knife has caught it in the past. There was also some brown staining from oil, this was easily removed with some household bleach. The crystal is original, easily identifiable by the small flat spot in the middle. I gave it the usual Autosol polish and it looks like new. I decided to leave all the historic marks on the case, and gave it a gentle polish with a silver cloth.