Leaderboard

Here are the other two from the same bundle.... Rolex Oyster Royal Gold/stainless 1934-35 Ref 3121 EBEL 18k Gold Modul-O-Quartz Beta21 movement

It's a Hamilton Franken...a PX bought dial, 987a movement, (1944), NOS Wadsworth case (1946) and a vintage Berkley US stainless band. Here's a nice Rolex Oyster 24hr Military 1943 Ref# 3478 It was a 'bundle' purchase at my favorite 'Estate Shop'.

When they come out of the post evaporust water try dumping them in a tub of 90+% IPA. This should disperse the water and when you take them out the IPA will evaporate quickly. Tom

Only guessing here but what fuel does your oven use. If gas it produces a lot of water valour. Chemical reactions depend on temperature amongst other things, roughly for every 10C increase the reaction rate doubles.

I'm in @JohnR725 camp. Something is very wrong here. How on earth can they expect a customer to have any knowledge about electricity / electronics, have a (calibrated?) multi-meter at home, understands what he is reading / doing and can read schematics? Once the device has been opened up, they can blame the customer. What if the customer, on their instructions, makes a genuine mistake or worse, gets harmed? All associated shipping & troubleshooting cost is not @thor447 problem. If the device is indeed brand new, ship it back. You paid for the device including warranty. What would be next? Please check out the high-voltage part inside a TV-set? That would get rid of the problem, meaning the customer.

Before I bought my Elma Solvex SE I emailed the company with questions regarding the warranty and they suggested I contact the Elma lead at Jules Borel (their US distributor) Kyle Woolworth. He answered my warranty questions (2 years coverage), which included asking who does the servicing. They use Electronic Instrument Service for servicing in the US.

So, I might get thrown out of the fraternity for these but they are actually military watches. The second one is a tritium lumped watch which is very close to one I was issued with on active service. We weren’t allowed to keep them, some watches had to go back into storage after an operation.

Not sure if he will be honoured but i was thinking of calling them Nicklesilver's toothpick condoms Its a prophylactic on some wood

I've been working on a DIY cleaning machine. Ran my first movement through it tonight and it did a good job. Parts came out clean and toasty dry. Though, it was a new movement as my starting project, so the parts were pretty clean to begin with. I'll next be running a vintage movement through it as a better cleaning test. Here's a quick video of it in action, https://youtu.be/KrhK5E3GqVU See photos below. This is based on a lab stirring motor and controller unit. Not perfect, but workable. I used the timer on my phone instead of the one on the controller. It is rated up to 3000 rpm. I was trying to run at about 200-300 rpm, which is the speed knob barely on. I would pull the basket up out of the liquid, but still in the jar, and spin at a faster rate to get out as much fluid before moving to the next station. 3D printed basket setup is originally from @muddtt with some minor tweaks that I made. The jar brackets and dryer intake and exhaust parts were ones that I designed. I used ABS plastic as it has good chemical and heat resistance. STL files are available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5905166. The drying station is based on a 12V PTC car heater fan. The brass mini baskets came out very toasty after about a 10 minute spin dry. The plastic baskets showed no negative affect from the heat. The 12V power supply does get pretty warm. Fortunately, the dry cycle doesn't need to be long. I only plug in the heater when that station needs to be used and then unplug (easier to rotate the turntable that way). I got a small 12" x 12" sheet of aluminum from Home Depot and cut 3/4" wide strips to make baffles for the bottom of the jars. The square-ish mason jars were helpful to keep those baffles from spinning, as long as you splay the fins out. Hopefully, these are getting the water to circulate better through the basket layers. I am a bit disappointed in the turntable. At 14" in diameter, it is large enough to have a wash and 3 rinse stations. The problem is the rotating base is such a small diameter that it is tipsy if not loaded evenly. I'm looking at getting a bigger rotating base for just a few bucks. You could go with a smaller turntable if you just want 2 rinse stations. I have just under $200 into this setup. Of course, you don't have to use a turntable (just manually swap out jars), or dryer station (use a hair dryer) to go even more budget. If you don't have a 3D printer, you could mount a stainless mesh basket to the metal spindle that comes with the stirring motor (not used in my setup). Overhead Stirrer, $70 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXFLVBS Turntable, $17 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PP44DQ4 32 oz Mason Jars, $3 each - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ball-Glass-Mason-Jar-with-Lid-Band-Wide-Mouth-32-oz-Single-Jar/24653886 12V PTC Car Heater Fan, $25 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MDN81C3 12V Power Supply, $21 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PWZQ33N Mini Parts Baskets, $9 per pair - https://www.ebay.com/itm/194215040365 Aluminum for Jar Baffles, $11.50 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-12-in-x-12-in-Plain-Aluminum-Sheet-in-Silver-56040/100293264 ABS Filament, $16 kg spool - Local Microcenter At some point, I would like to try an automated design. Maybe repurpose a 3D printer. For giggles, I was able to easily fit 3 mason jars and my drying station on my Ender 3's bed. Mount a stirring motor to the X-Z axis gantry. Maybe repurpose the hotend heater, thermocouple and fan to make a drying station. 3D printed brackets to hold the jars and drying station in place on the bed. Arduino or Raspberry Pi to control it all. Not sure if anyone is interested in collaborating on such a project.

Cousins has the full parts list for download.

Thanks @LittleWatchShop. I should have clarified earlier. The machine was basically 'new', but I bought it from a private individual.

I see now, thanks. I don't know if this helps.

Yes, and yes.

That's what I did with mine. Then wiped with Barricade wipes and for good measure I put a Bullfrog rust prevention strip on the inside of the case.

I got some of their penetrating oil. Says it's a rust inhibitor. It literally didn't occur to me what wd means till you mentioned it haha.

Have you got WD40? It should displace the water, the clue's in the name. Hehe.

hmm, the drug store sells 91% I could go pick some up if that's high enough. Good idea tho.

Couldn't you just wipe with kitchen roll and oil straight away?

I would wipe them down with a rag soaked in WD40, this will remove most of the rust and also provide a barrier to prevent the formation of new rust at the same time. WD40 should work as I assume the evaporust will have removed most of the old deeper rust and what formed after you used this is just a thin skin of surface rust. Worth a try.

I have cleaned many by chucking them in a drill motor and spinning while gripping wit 1000 grit sand paper.

240 ohms was one of the readings. For a heater operating off 110V, that is reasonable. Not bogus. The meter would simply read the highest reading. There is no infinity symbol on the meter display. It is not brand new. I know Thor said the unit was new in the OP. However, he and I have spoken and texted by phone a number of times. We discussed the unit when he got it. It was relatively new but he did not buy it from Elma. I can see how this has caused some confusion in the responses.

With all due respect. I have multimeters that are 30 yrs old. And they have never been calibrated. Granted, they may not be 100% accurate but none of them have drifted off by more than 5 %. Which is better than the tolerance of general components. For that matter, do timegraphers need to be calibrated?

Just a Coldwar Kid having fun with old Soviet horology.

If the end-shake of the 4th wheel isn't too bad you could possibly instead move the 3rd wheel a bit away from the fourth wheel. If the end-shake of the 3rd wheel is already good you would have to adjust both jewels equally. As a rule of thumb, the end-shake for small pivots should be approximately half the diameter of the pivot and about 1/3 of the diameter for large pivots .

I was wondering when the dirty dozen would show up.

What kind of Scottish nonsense is that? Is that the equivalent of doohickey, dumaflache, thingamabob, whatchamacallit, etc.? I googled it, and found something about plot devices.

Thanks for the info. I am away from home today, but will measure 1-3 at a higher range and will report the results when I get back.

Two military/civilian version pairs from Benrus/Belforte, in various states of repair and condition...

I don't remember. Could have been made in the Virgin Islands Not V.I. Swiss

One of my favorites. I had to re-lume it.

I find it strange also, as pointed out if new, it's a warranty issue. Difficulty of shipping should not be a consideration.

I have these. Not sure they are military, tried researching and asked on here but no definite answer. Enjoy anyway.

It lives! Now I need to let it settle down, check it tomorrow and if all is well, regulate it. I will also need to see if I can figure out how to adjust that complex looking arrangement of screws on the balance bridge. I must admit, I left that well alone while I was cleaning it, as I'm not 100% sure how it works yet. I also confirmed that it is definitely a Cyma 216, as it is stamped under the balance. I will also need to find it a new case. Even if I currently have nothing suitable to case it in at the moment, I think I have to admit, I've enjoyed a lot more than 99 pence worth of entertainment from it.

On those types of dials a rubber will only remove the dirt it will not harm the dial. That has come up very nicely.

Very gentle application of a small propelling pencil eraser and this is the improvement. I didn't want to rub through the silver plating or remove any of the printing, so it took a little while. I was afraid I might improve it worse. It looks even better close up, as that engine turning shimmers nicely as you move it around, and the twelve dial divisions are much more apparent. I also cleaned up the back of the dial, although nobody is likely to ever see that except me. In case you are curious, I'm fairly certain the Tavennes movement that goes with this dial is actually a Cyma 216, which put the date of the watch around 1930 which makes it around 93 years old.

Update on the contact adhesive swabs. After 12 hours the adhesive has set quite hard making them more usable imho. They still pick up fibres and debris just as well , but might lend themselves to dial cleaning as well as the consistency is similar to a hard rubber. Just be sure to put enough on to keep the toothpick covered, it doesn't need much as the adhesive is pretty tough. Heres a gross shot before lunch .

It's just coming up for 9.30am in the UK Oldhippy

Todays yard sale find. $20 The ones above the stretch band all work. 2 10k gold and one 14k white gold.