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Notice the difference in knurling on the smallest one.

Finally finished my Omega pocket watch from 1910. Bought as movement only, had to source a stem and I've finally found a case. Haven't bothered putting it on the timegrapher but it's about plus 12 seconds without trying to regulate, I can live with that, I know some of you couldn't, hehe.

As they're so fine, you can cut them many ways, I have - pliers, scored with a knife ,or fine file, and snapped. The main thing is secure it so it doesn't ping off. Something soft like Rodico stops it pinging off. I also recommend using Rodico when removing springs - stick a lump of Rodico on one end and lift with tweezers. The Rodico damps the "ping" and stops it flying.

If you don't want to wait, use the cutter part of some pliers. I suggest holding the spring in Rodico so that it too doesn't join the Swiss Space Program.

3 examples of tools Bergeon sell that are clearly made in China Go on Aliexpress and search for the following items 1. Automatic oiler 2. Broken Screw Remover 3. Hand Press (the 4 head version) Unfortunately you do need both Chinese and the Bergeon branded versions side by side to see just how obvious it is they came out of the same factory

“Use the table below to determine the tap size of your watch stem. Measure the diameter the threads on the stem and use the table below to find the corresponding tap size.” https://blog.esslinger.com/stem-tap-mm-size-cross-reference-chart/

One other thing is I think you should do would be when you get your replacement movement. When there is no power on the movement rotate the balance wheel 180° let it go and see how many times it oscillates then you'll know in the future what is the number for your watch. Also take some time and look at the watch when it's running. Initially were so excited to rip this thing apart that we don't always pay attention to things. Look at the balance wheel look at how to oscillates look at the hairspring out opens and closes look at it looks flatter.. Then compare it to you other watch you can make comparisons. It's really hard to tell with one watch especially when your new what is good and what is bad. Now they have some experience what you're looking for you can look at the new watch and things should be hopefully little more visible of what you're looking at.

Hi, until December last year, the only watch I had was my battered Granddads Medana pocket watch. Stopped wearing watches with the advent of mobile phones. (age giveaway there) That never stopped me window gazing in shops though. I've since bought 5 watches. The Medana had a plastic dial cover which was yellowing. I thought to myself, let's see if I can do anything to make it better. Bought a glass, (should have bought acrylic) used clear jewellery adhesive to secure it. Removed the balance wheel, bit of a half hearted clean. Bought a few tools, since esculated. Aliexpress, bought some old scrap / non working watches to practice with. Bought a non working Waltham pocket watch, again to practice on, awaiting delivery. Bought another Waltham pocket watch, which is running, looks dirty lost 20 minutes over 12 hours!! After practicing on the non working one, I shall give this a strip down and clean. Had a close look at it while at work, using a VMM ( visual measuring machine) Capable of 900 times magnification Jewels are dry and dirty. Anyway, that's my introduction. I'll probably be asking some dumb questions at some point.....

I hold springs down with a piece of sharpened peg wood.

Oh, you can find a dull nail clipper in the house.

Tom Thinking on it. Will let you know. Got a bit of time now that the spring thing is to be sorted. Regards Ross

Tom Ordered. My Seikosha and I Thank you

Probably only an envelope and 1st class stamp mate if you don’t want personal delivery Tom

I’m sure someone will correct me if needed, I would use snips same as when shortening stems when new. Tom

@rossjackson01look here Ross, https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/short-pipe-swiss-italian-ss they have stainless or chrome in the size you are looking for. 99p for chrome, £1.10 for stainless steel +VAT and postage, might be worth putting together an order to make it better for you. Tom

Waggy These any use? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAc3SKLhnV4 1:50 time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7giZKwp5b1Y Regards Ross

I think I posted an image somewhere before of how Omega used to recommend the compass but now it's all electronic stuff. Now you can get one unit that measures and then you can demagnetize. The thing that bothers me always with the compass is the compass should point at or be attracted to iron that seems like you should be attracted to the screws whether there magnetized or not. So basically I never worry about it I just remember to try to put the watch on the demagnetizer.

Welcome to the forum, enjoy. Have you tried to reattach the hands in the correct place.

I'm sure someone will come along in a moment and explain how to do that particular clip. But in the meantime let's figure out what you really have because it's not a Waltham. Always one of the confusing things for identifying watches are the name on the dial does not necessarily represent who made the movements. Companies will purchase movements from suppliers put their names on the dial the case even the automatic weight but they're not necessarily the people who made the movements. Usually the most common place where you find the movement identification is under the balance wheel. There usually be sometimes a symbol or letters representing the company and then a number. Because we figure out who actually made this we might build to find technical information if We are lucky. Now on some typically more modern watches you can hear the weight spinning when the automatic parts aren't working right.

I had to post this because I know you will be jealous of the dial. Hehe.

A closed and resized hole wont be as good as the original factory made one, usually bushings are made of metals more resistant to wear in comparison to metal bridge is made of.

Also worth a bob or two, the Imperial fetching more than the deluxe and Astral. A gold Imperial starting at around 600 up to over a grand for a good condition and working example. More if you can wait to sell on Chrono24.

Its repairable, perhaps kinked where its in the regualtor slot, move regulator arm to expose where is now in the slot, streighten the kink, reshape the terminal curve, your quality check and final adjustment is when installed. Good luck

This. Looked it up, it's seaside grade but the case is railway grade, I think. Look at the cutout on the front of the case, that was for the setting lever.

I realise this post is very old but it took me a long while to connect the dots here. I do believe that the way the punches are laid out in the old C.E Marshall catalog (here) on pages 10 + 11 are the same as seen in the image of the set on page 12. However, instead of being spread over 5 rows (on pages 10 + 11) the punches are over 10 rows in the actual set (on page 12).

Hello and welcome

Hi Willy welcome to the forum. Enjoy

I am beaming with pride that as a novice who still can't help constantly shooting cap jewels or diafix springs out of tweezers into oblivion, I just succeeded in installing a new roller jewel for an Elgin 6s pocket watch. I don't yet have my staking set to finish reinstalling the roller table, but one thing at a time.

As for jumpy springs; Has happened to us all in the beginning. Experience and better techniques will reduce the frequency. As a starter, if you suspect a jumpy spring you can put the movement inside a transparent plastic bag. If or when it jumps, it should be inside the bag, but check your hands and sleeves when you pull them out! For me, best is to hold them down with a chisel-shaped pegwood and be "light" on the tweezers when handling. But there are many other ways to prevent them from flying ..... nonetheless, still some will do the escape-trick. I guess, in the beginning I spent more time underneath my desk, searching, than above When a spring jumps, and you don't hear it landing, don't move and check your hair, eyebrows, hands, sleeves, your lap, desk, chair, trousers, socks, shoes etc. When you get up and move, check your shoe soles, the chair again, etc. Try to find it before you move too much around or leave the scene. Magnet is a good idea, in the night a very strong narrow beam flash-light scanning close over the floor (looking for a reflection) or an empty bag in your vacuum cleaner may also help. Clean the floor before you start, good for your hobby and your wife will be happy too These should be in every watch-repairers kit: Suc6

If I could find all the parts I’ve lost, I could assemble a few complete watches. Hang in there.

Welcome to the forum glad you are enjoying horological, what can go wrong. Plenty of pit falls but most of all enjoy.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

Welcome to the WRT forum.

Hi Tony, welcome to the forum. If you go into the BHI ( British Horological Institute) web site there is a list of recognised horologists world wide.

Got this watch off eBay for 25$, would run for a few seconds then stop. Once I had fully disassembled it, I inspected all of the pivots, trainwheels, jewels etc to look for signs of damage. Found none so assumed it just needed to be cleaned. I cleaned the watch parts in an ultrasonic cleaner doing one cycle with a detergent, a second with a solvent, and a third in 99.9 % alcohol. put it back together and lubricated and its running great, Seems like it just needed to be cleaned and lubricated in order to run well again.