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A tip for when you glue the block back on; glue a piece of paper onto the block and then glue the paper side onto the case. Then leave a note in the case for the next person who repairs the clock. When you put a chisel along the paper glue-line and give a sharp tap the paper will cleave away from the case.

Hey friends. I'm posting this not really to show case, but to say thank you to everyone of you who gave me tips and help to finally achieve this. As I mentioned in my very first post, introducing myself, this summer I purchased 3 of watches in a jumble sale. This is one of those 3 watches, fully serviced and restored with the skills I learnt from Mark's courses and this forum. It is named Kowal Ancre, I think it was a Spanish company that bought the name from a old Swiss company, it mounts an As2066 movement. Noting more to add but some pictures. Again, thanks a lot. @Mark @jdm @Plato @Marc @HectorLooi

Hi, for reasons I cannot quite explain I started viewing pocket watch restoration videos on YouTube. Then I bought a non-running Waltham 1899 610 from Ebay for £8 which I have stripped down to the bare bones and cleaned (with varying degrees of success, it had been taped together at some point and even lighter fluid wont get some of the old sticky off). It now has a bent hair spring (dropped the balance cock whilst removing it), is short one plate screw (it pinged out of the tweezers, never to be seen again) and I am discovering how much harder it is putting it all back together. My goodness, trying to put small screws back in is frustrating, how on earth do you do it? Despite the challenges I am having a great time. Regards, Bob

Hi Ross watch hands are many styles and sizes, whether you will get a genuine replacement or not is in the lap of the gods. Jules Borel, Esslingers will probably have hand selections but you will need to measure the pinion with a vernier to get the size and then find a generic hand to fit.

Iam afraid the answer to your question is what is the level of your expertise, If you are familiar with watches and their construction and the availability of spares etc, then probably NO. If you are a beginner and this is a first project then YES. If the latter is true then my advice would be put it aside and gain the expertise required by working on simpler watches and increase your knowledge before attempting this project. What is the movement make ? makers mark under the balance and also the caliber number. Both of these are require when seeking /ordering parts. From what I can make out it may be a poljot but it is indistinct on the picture. They are also required if we are to find technical information.

a 1971 Timex Mercury with a model 24 movement. Very durable movement and a good one to start with for vintage Timex.

That works if the closing day and time and is within your availability, and you're ok to interrupt something else at that time. Not everyone has this convenience. Sniping removes these constrains, and also prevent your own any bidding frenzy at the last minute. Both are very good things I'd say.

I just received, after ordering it two months ago, one of these microphones with rotating stand, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002762635294.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.48914c4d5WFIQb It is powered by a 9V battery and has a 1/8" TRRS plug as output. Power draw from the battery is about 11.5 mA, so maybe 40 hours from a typical 9V. The plug is designed for a phone, with four conductors, and the last two, RS, are used as ground and microphone. The tip and first ring would be line out from the phone. This means if you plug in a two or three conductor audio cable it will short the microphone to ground. There is a included a TRRS to TRS cable, but of course, no instructions at all to tell you this. It is 3d printed and glued together. It was not hard to separate the lid with a razor blade along the glue joint. Inside there is a small board glued in place. I see a 100 µF cap, and 8 pin chip, some kind of trimmer, and a few chip resistors and capacitors. It's hard to get a good look. There's a disk piezo in there, but it's encased in expanding foam. It's assembled such that the side of the holder the watch is on is on the bottom part of the holder as one rotates it 180° from DU to DD. This means it passes by the vertical post of the stand and there isn't much clearance. The band hits. After opening it, one gains access to the screw attaching the holder to the stand. I flipped the holder around so now the watch will be on the upper arc of the holder as it rotates and not need to pass by the post. Photo of insides: Example beat. From a Seiko 7S26C. I've turned off the high pass filter to try to show the entire range. To compare, here's the same watch with a USB earbud microphone pod. I had to put in a narrow notch filter at 22.44 kHz to remove a background sound from my monitor that the piezo microphone completely fails to capture. There is a lot more background noise under 1 kHz. But also more of the beat above 20 kHz that is now captured.

You’ve transformed that watch. It looks great, well done!

I serviced this the other day. The really cool thing I discovered is that I found my Dad's mark from servicing it in 1981. I got the watch from my sister-in-law. Her Dad and mine were friends, so it is not too surprising to find that he serviced it. The crystal arrived yesterday: GS DT 305. I think it needs a 306 because it went in too easily. The picture shown of the movement is with the oscillator weight removed. Here is the info on this movement.

Hi Ross it looks like a Timex 24 movement. Check out the 24 service manual see if its ok . The 1961 manual describes the service philsophy relating to the early timex brands. 24 (2).pdf 1961_Service_Manual (1).pdf

I am not sure if there is a datasheet, schematic diagram or exploded view on this caliber to be found online, lucky our watchweasol is good with finding them, he will come to help you soon. Regs

I think it's literally just a different colored handle. The replacement tips are the same part number. I used black forever, then got some red a few years back, no difference.

Screwdriver choices have a lot of interesting variables. To understand this the BHI once did a review a screwdrivers pictures detailed description and a summary which I snipped out below. You can't just look at the numbers you have to read the text and it's not really black and white which is best in which is worse as there are variables. For instance my first set of bergon Screwdrivers came in a wooden box as the material house was out of those with the plastic base. But having the wood box is worked out really well. For instance currently that set is at work it's in a drawer. Each day they come out it's their set on top of the bench each day they go back into the box were hopefully there's safe. At home I have several of the 9570 sets which are the same screwdrivers as in the wood box. That's because a very long time ago one of the big material houses unfortunately long since gone had a sale and there were $25 each. But even though there's a nice plastic base when I'm using him I have a habit of not putting the screwdrivers in the base I keep them on the bench. So in the review they reviewed the police as to how well it spins etc. and I could care less.

Modern cuckoo clock with glued bellows. Should be able to prise the buggers off with care.

Excellent document. Particularly the answer in herz of the graph. Confirms a conclusion that we had reached empirically. That the frequencies above 1Khz are the most important in the measurement. And the graph makes it clear there is a strong attenuation at frequencies below 1Khz.

Hi The one I have is a runner but does not have the center sweep hand but it keeps good time. The diagnosis sounds a bit vague to say the least, sluggish and prone to stopping sounds to me like it needs a good clean and lube after that re asses the situation. More like he does not want to spend time finding out if he cannot charge for it.

one of my contacts confirmed the 58 Marlin stem crown should fit.

the problem is were in a dying the field. The supply and demand in particular demand is nonexistent that means the people supplying are going to charge accordingly. If the oil companies made 1,000,000,000,000 gallons of oil a year because they put in automobiles and we could use it on watches it would be dirt cheap. But when everything is a special day it's going to cost more unfortunately. This is where if you are in a business you would offload this cost on to the customer and probably write it off I your taxes but as a hobbyist were screwed. Then unfortunately if the p125 solves your problem then it's worth it. if you look at the top header of the message board is a category I think says guidelines we should all read it from time to time. As far as I can tell posting links to anything for sale is not a problem unless. The unless party is and Mark will come down on you for this one which he recently did no posting to things that you have a financial interest in. In other words if you're selling something on eBay you're going to make a profit off of us that's frowned upon. Or even posting a link to your website if you're running a commercial business. so item for sale anywhere in the universe and you think it's a good product telling us about it no problem. A lot of times when people don't tell me which country therein I would just do a search I find somebody selling it and say that's which you should get and let you figure out where the heck you really get it from. The only place where I deviate from marks rules is if someone is looking for horological education point them in the direction of marks classes as opposed to somewhere else if it's practical we should at least try to support the messageboard.