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Hey friends. I'm posting this not really to show case, but to say thank you to everyone of you who gave me tips and help to finally achieve this. As I mentioned in my very first post, introducing myself, this summer I purchased 3 of watches in a jumble sale. This is one of those 3 watches, fully serviced and restored with the skills I learnt from Mark's courses and this forum. It is named Kowal Ancre, I think it was a Spanish company that bought the name from a old Swiss company, it mounts an As2066 movement. Noting more to add but some pictures. Again, thanks a lot. @Mark @jdm @Plato @Marc @HectorLooi

Hi They may be down and dirty proofs but they are still quality, I have seen watches sold with worse finishes than those for sure. I would like to see your finished article if those are proofs. Classic, clean and simple.

Hi Gina which movement depends on how much you want to spend. Depending on your location , Jules Borel and Esslingers in the US offer movements the likes of Miyota, Seiko, Ronda, sellita etc so its best to peruse their web sites and check out the movements on offer and the physical sizes. Have you a case or is that somthing you will have to get. By The way The Chinese movements are almost impossible to get parts for and the technical information is almost zero. The seagull movements are not bad finish is usually a bit dubious but reasonably priced. I believe Perrins in Canada list the Chinese movements

I've known Dave a long time. When I first started into watches he helped me take apart and put back together my first practice pocket watch.

There is no reason for a low volume hobbyist to spend even one quarter of that amount for a set of screwdrivers. Read on this topic what has been said about Swiss made, unbranded A*F for 2.50 GBP a piece. "Only a fool blames his tools", and that was said even before showing off brand names became an habit.

I'm not much of a quartz person. The 1 sec stopping seconds hand always makes me wonder if the battery is dead. Yes, I do notice when something isn't moving and it should be, even if it is for less than 1 second. I do have two watches with a VH31 movement which ticks 4 times per second. I really like these. BUT, put yourself in the 1970's and the state of the computer industry. The magnitude of making a computer small enough to run a watch is pretty impressive. I have rebuilt a few Seiko 754x series. Minus damage from leaking batteries, these things could last for 1000 years. I'm sure older Swiss quartz are similar. I've serviced $3 Miyota movements. Why? Because a technical guide was available and it was held together with screws so it was meant to be serviced. It's kind of relaxing when you know you are out only a few dollars if you mess it up. I don't live my life such that 5-10 seconds a day off will change anything. Some people are obsessed with accuracy and it makes them happy. There are GPS corrected and synchronized watches for these people and I sure this technology brings them great joy. Quartz vs. mechanical isn't a precise time keeping thing for me. Mechanical watches are my thing but an interesting quartz is always an option.

Success! It turned out to be the hairspring not correctly centred and the coils would touch at high amplitude, causing a rate rise. I adjusted the hairspring to make it more concentric (as much as a coil can be) and retested the watch. The rate was stable, even when making adjustments, whereas before, an adjustment to the rate or beat would upset the balance and make it unstable. The fault was hidden from my initial reading before strip down because the watch couldn't attain a high enough amplitude, the clue was the high beat error. When I initially lowered the beat error, unknown to me, I was overcompensating for the HS problem and when this was corrected the beat error came back at the same amount, but in the opposite direction. I've added a final timegrapher trace and a pic of the finished watch. It is stable in amplitude and rate to within a couple of seconds in all positions. Thank you all for your help and assistance, I have now learned a few more things.

Sorry to disappoint you but it isn't a verge escapement. It's an anchor escapement

Thanks for pointing that out! I read the post four times, and still didn't pick up on it. Distracted trying to identify the movement. Advice still stands.

The OP is the watchmaker. Smart decision by an independent maker to supply (at least) professionals.

Not sure what a Nomos C5500 is, but they are pretty good about making parts available to independent watchmakers and their in-house service and repair is in my experience reasonable too. If your watchmaker is cleaning the movement, he should be able to order and replace the date disc at the same time.

I worked on the hairspring before bed and surprisingly managed to untangle it quite quickly. I replaced the balance, did a quick clean and oiled the going train. Adjusted the beat and the clock came back to life.

Have you tried contacting Nomos to see if they are willing to sell you the date wheel? Archer from watchuseek/omegaforums, a respected independent watchmaker has managed to obtain spare parts from them, even recently.

I clean anything with shellac by hand (Horosolv degreaser). For the cleaning machine I use IPA (isopropanol) in the final rinse. I (and my wife!) just can't take the smell of naphtha or suprol pro and IPA works extremely well. The smell of Suprol pro is absolutely horrendous, like death, and has a narcotic effect warning. Stay away from it! It will probably shorten your life by quite a bit.