Leaderboard

Absolutely. However, unless there was damaged threads involved which caused binding between the stem and the crown before the stem bottomed out in the crown (always a possibility) it would be impossible to tighten the crown on the stem in the first place. Also as I already mentioned, the mechanism you describe would simply draw the crown out towards the setting position which (assuming there was no hack) wouldn't cause the movement to stop, it would simply disengage the crown wheel and engage the setting works resulting in the hands turning with further turning of the crown. Obviously a hacking function would also stop the movement running. The OP states; Which means that this behaviour was observed with the movement out of the case and therefore with nothing other than the stem between the crown and the edge of the movement. In which case the correct (or otherwise) fitment of the stem to the crown cannot have any bearing on the symptoms observed. Where the OP states that he wound the watch and then "put gentle pressure on the crown" I have interpreted this (rightly or wrongly) as meaning that once the spring was fully wound the gentle pressure applied to the crown was rotational against the resistance of the fully wound spring. In which case the application of torque in excess to that which the main spring was able to supply unaided was sufficient to overcome the additional drag that can result from dried up or gummy oil and the accumulation of dirt in the movement resulting in the movement starting to run. If this interpretation was correct then my suggestion that a clean and relube would likely solve the problem is not unreasonable. If the correct interpretation was that having wound the movement gentle pressure was then applied axially to the crown such that the stem was pushed into the movement resulting in the movement running then a further investigation of the keyless works would be necessary to diagnose the problem as it would suggest that something was binding in the keyless works. In my original response I suggested; During the course of a proper service the fit and function of every part of the watch is inspected and if required, adjusted so that it works properly. I believe that my original response still holds good.

Just finished this Helvetia Cal 831. Nice quality movement with capped escape wheel jewel and unusual adjuster. Fitted a new mainspring, strap and crystal. It's beating away nicely at 300° amplitude. I love this style of watch, and like the fact that you can buy such a good quality watch off the bay for so few £££. I've recently repaired a couple of friends watches - both Rotary with horribly cheap and nasty Chinese movements and 4x what I paid for this. This is the first watch I've removed the radium from the dials and hands. After reading up on the hazards, I wasn't taking any chances, working with a mask and gloves.

Level 2 is still being developed and will be available in August. It contains a section on regulating and timing. I do plan on building a timing machine mini-course which explains how to use a timing machine for fault finding as well as dynamic poising. But yes, the focus is building the main course at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New Old Stock Benrus automatic with a as 2066 movement Circa 1975

Seiko 6309-5000 Sent from my Honor 5c

The first thing I would do is take it out of its case and see if it runs OK. Is it stopping at the same place, if so check the hands, make sure they are free from obstruction. Run the watch with the dial and hands removed. Are you using the correct screws for the parts? Do exactly as clockboy has said. As it is a two-barrel movement, did you put the barrels back together using the exact same parts as when you took it apart. I know it sounds silly but sometimes it can make a difference.

I just won this on a popular online auction site, so don't have it in hand yet, but I'm reasonably happy with what I paid for it. I'm pretty confident on the date being the back of the case has an engraving dated 1927. From what I understand up until around 1933 Unicorn was a brand marketed by Rolex in Australia, it uses a movement made by Beguelin & Cie SA (BTCo). The plating on the case is heavily worn on the back, but I am attending a workshop at the end of the month on gold plating, so will hopefully be able to get that fixed. I know its not a Rolex, but its probably about as close as I will come to ever owning a real Rolex. This will sit on my back burner whilst I practice on a few other movements before I feel confident to work on this watch.

My "HKED" ST1901 chrono

Just finished this! An excellent example indeed...an Elgin 17 jewel automatic with a lovely hourglass painted dial. It has an HB 312 German made movement. This movement was a bit tricky to service being my first time working on these. There is a definite order and how to disassemble and reassemble this movement. Very finicky! For example remove one bridge, then remove a wheel, then remove another part, then remove the other wheel, then remove the mainspring then remove another wheel, and on, and on, and on...