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I had sold this watch to a collector here on Oahu , Hawaii , and he put some money down on it with the intention of paying off the rest in a short period of time . Unfortunately the buyer became burdened with other financial obligations and after a couple of months I returned his down payment and this baby is all mine again . From what I have read and using the serial # , it is a 1964 Model with the AS 1700 / 01 movement . I have had the back off and the movement is very clean with no signs of corrosion , scratches , or dirt . There are no markings from watchmakers and there is a Glycine Hallmark on the inner case back . It is an Automatic with the distinctive internal wire used for the hacking . All functions of the watch work properly and it keeps good time . It has a 24 hour movement instead of the usual 12 hour movement found in most watches . I used to think that the crown had been changed because it did not have the cross hatch design on it , but after some reading I found out that that feature was introduced the following year ,...1965 . Mine has the red date wheel that was changed to black in the early 60's , but I also read that various configurations come up in regards to dial markings and other features during this transformation period . All I have done to it is install a canvas top / cordura underside watch band reminiscent to those sold during that period . I also installed a crystal with the trapezoid magnifier , and repaint the bezel numbers . http://andres55.home.xs4all.nl/frames/airman25years.htm http://www.glycintennial.com/serial-no.---calibers.html

On my arm today has been this Helvetia Brittania cal 64.

Just look at this rubbish, very poor movement, modern and made to look old, extremely poor painting on the porcelain? panels looks like child has done it. Asking price £275. You can buy a nice French carriage clock for that, not a heap of junk like this. Avoid at all costs. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Porcelain-Panelled-Miniature-Day-Date-Carriage-Clock-Open-To-Offers-/172386900231?hash=item28230f5907:g:9bgAAOSwal5YDnPQ

Proper inspection is done before cleaning and again after cleaning that includes all parts even the screws.

That's beautiful work, D! And the sun dial really enhances the view! Great Job! Cheers, Bob

You are right it is hinged but it slides on the "hinge". So it might not jump after all. You still turn it, though. It's been a long time...

Tweaked dat spring

Sounds like you may have a damaged pivot on the escape wheel or further back up the train. I know this may sound a pain, but I would be inclined to build up one train wheel at a time (without the barrel), and check each one moves freely and runs true, then add one wheel at a time making sure that they can all still do a full revolution without sticking before fitting the next one. As frenchie says above, they should move with a puff of air if you have a blower, but don't blow with your mouth as you will leave moisture behind. While they are all out is a good time to check every pivot and jewel with a 10x or 12x loupe. Also check you have no damaged teeth or dirt between teeth.

you need to bend the last 5mm of the spring the end that meets the barrel wall.

Actually, I returned the scale at no cost, and then I found an electronic scale on Amazon that measures to 1/1000 gram so have ordered that. It was amazingly cheap ($50) and hopefully this will help once it arrives.

I would look first to the amplitude. The Omega service spec says the amplitude should be greater than 190deg in the vertical plane 24 hours after a full wind. However, mine is about 10 months old, and I wound it about 12 hours ago; I just checked it on the timegrapher and the amplitude was 330 degrees, varying by +/-3 in the horizontal plane as yours is shown. In the vertical plane (crown right), this dropped to about 290 degrees, varying by +/- 7 Yours has a lot more variation in the amplitude and timekeeping so I would say it's time for a service. It will be very difficult to regulate with that kind of variability. How often you wear the watch is irrelevant. The oils will deteriorate with time regardless of use. Servicing it now will save you from a bigger bill if you leave it till later.

Wearing this today Marcel & Cie Cal BFG158

So attached images for Elgin and Waltham tap Screw sizes. For any of us who have searched through a container screws the word standard in watch repair doesn't really seem to apply.

"10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4... take a deep breath and exhale." Ok, I've calmed down, stopped swearing and I promise not to punch and walls. Mainspring, my mortal enemy why do you keep taunting me?! I feel fairly confident when it comes to disassembling and assembling any type of watch (not including chronos yet). But when I sit staring at that mainspring barrel a voice always whispers in my ear "- Let it be. It's probably fine. No need to disturb what need not be awaken." But I always ignore that voice, I'm a capable man after all, right? Oh the lies, the lies I keep telling myself.. I have acquired a set of three K&d mainspring winders type 123. They usually do the trick when it has come to old Hamilton movements such as the 980, 770 etc. The t-end mainsprings found in these movements are easy enough to reinstall with said winder (most of the times anyway). Automatics however, seems to be a different beast entirely. I have in the last week completely destroyed two mainsprings while trying to restore a Seiko Sealion. I mean, what's the problem? What is so different with the automatic mainsprings? You hook it up, roll it in, and pop it out in to the barrel. But no no, these mainsprings does not want to play ball. They twist and turn and eventually explode. Is anybody else using similar winders with automatic mainsprings? If so, how do you get it to work? What am I missing? Or should I just leave the mainsprings be? Only open Pandora's box when I know it's broken? What do you suggest? Here's the mainspring flower I picked this morning.

Happy to tick again estimate production year : 1872