Leaderboard

Before we get into the mysteries of Novostar A reminder of how do we know that we doing lubrication properly? For this we need a timing machine ideally the before and after of servicing after should look better. Specifically the best test is to look at amplitude basically inefficiency test. If we have the right tech sheets it will actually tell us what were supposed to have. Then ideally whatever we see should last for several years depending upon whether the watch is sealed up like a automatic watch or more open to the elements were things will change like a pocket watch. I like one of the biggest problems we have with all horological lubrication is the lack of proper technical specifications. Then for companies like Novostar We get confusing technical specifications. So I was looking for a site that would have specifications for their lubrication most sites are very limited the link below is better but still not perfect. http://www.beco-technic.com/novostar-oel-6-ml-17313.html So this is there type "B" lubrication if you look at the picture the bottle you'll notice the word bracelets Which I must make the wild assumption means tiny. So tiny watch look at the description and you see a reference to clocks and its viscosity. Usually for viscosity the heavier the larger the pivots size so this is a relatively light oil yet it's recommended for barrels and clocks? http://www.beco-technic.com/novostar-oel-10-ml-17314.html# So for the next one this is the type M on the bottled says pocket and on the chart seems to be less popular. Slightly Hanoverian viscosity and noticed on both of them the total lack of synthetic natural artificial we see the lacking a few specifications. http://www.beco-technic.com/novostar-oel-20-ml-17315.html# Now the type R bottle labeled Alarm clock and in fine print pendulum clock obviously this should be the heaviest oil if we believe what the Bible says. Notice how the descriptions all start to look the same? Although from the viscosity this is the heaviest of all three and compared to Moebius lubricants very very light oils. The most common specification we can find for lubrication's is viscosity which unfortunately really isn't enough but it's mainly all we get. Attached is an image of various lubrication viscosities. So the amusing aspect the viscosity is looking at the chart it doesn't seem like it's really important to use a light oil and a fast-moving situation and a heavy oil and a slow moving situation which is what is recommended. For instance look at Nye 140c Incredibly fluid oil and it is recommended for watches. It even has tech sheet somewhat confusing but it exists http://lam.free.fr/tmp/nye_watch_oil_140c.pdf The notice on the chart that the Nye 140B even more fluid is there clock oil. I've seen a bottle of this it looks like water so not a lot of answers just a lot of confusing things. There are other things that come into play with how fluid the oil is is also the contact angle or how fast as it spread on various materials. Usually for lighter lubricants Moebius Recommends surface treatment normally skipped over by hobbyists due to cost but widely used in industry to keep lubrication where it's supposed to be. Unfortunately for us if we're using a lubricant that should be surface treated beforehand were doing the wrong thing. So for the mystery of Novostar and nye I have zero idea. Other than I find horological lubrication an amusing subject.

Hi, I've just bought a second hand Favorite staking set and have found that the pin vice doesn't fit into the staking tool bore. This appears to be due to a small pin partway up the shank of the pin vice being about 0.1mm proud of the surface. Now, being a bit new to this I assume that the pin vice is for holding reamers and the such like and having the reamer about an inch above any workpiece isn't too useful. I thought I'd have a check here before I remove the proud part of the pin that the problem I have is actually a problem. I assume that the pin is to hold some part of the internal mechanism of the pin vice and not a design feature. Anyway, does anyone else have a favorite staking set and can they confirm that the pin vice fits all the way down the bore? TIA

interesting. have you compared it to other ebay pics? i'd be curious to see what you find. yeah - no "swiss made" on it is the first thing i noticed. another thing - the crystal bezel seems to be in remarkeable condition compared to the rest of the case. there's no schmutz on it where it meets the crystal. on the other hand, there is a bit of schmutz on the pushers and crown. could it be a replacement crystal? they might have cleaned up the bezel when they replaced it. if it is a redial, they did a great job with the patina, but fell short on marking placement. that "12" and "60" misalignment is odd indeed. frenchie - are the "45"s supposed to line up? oh - and congratulations on fatherhood. there's nothing like that euphoria. and it doesn't go away.

A few things I see that are a bit strange: - No brand name - It doesn't say swiss made anywhere - On the small dial to the left, you can clearly see that the "45" markers aren't aligned - Strange markings on the outer section of the dial at the 12 o'clock, 1 o'clock and between 2 and 3 o'clock positions

I recently had real problems trying to get the dust from the back of an Omega glass. After polishing the acrylic the blower just wouldn't shift it. I use clean Rodico, but even that can leave a mark. I bought one of these 'Camera monitor lens cleaners' from ebay - it's like a solid blob of silicone, and picks of the bits of dust. Cheap, and works well

If it makes you feel any better it's a constant battle on any kind of watch, I can't tell you how many times I've had to fit a new glass or work dial side on a watch, inspected the glass/dial with the watch on a casing cushion, under a lamp, with an eye glass, going back and forth a dozen times being ultra thorough, and then I'll finally put the winder in and the case back on, inspect again and some debris just came out of thin air and I have to start again. I'm not aware of anyway of making it easy, you just need a decent cloth, an airblower, a good eye and an absolute abundance of patience. A black background is a good idea though.

Attached is a Novostar Lubrication chart it also has the Moebius equivalents. One of the things I've always found interesting about Novostar Lubrication Is the rather confusing description of where you should use it. If you look at the chart it looks like Novostar B Is just about the universal oil for everything in the watch? Novostar oil.pdf

Hi Ramrod, Your Lanco is in good company.The Tissot 2481 is also used in Omega watches..here its called the 1481. Not sure what you mean by screw adjuster for the escape.. are you talking about the rate adjuster on the balance cock? This usually gets messed up when people try to undo it. Your problems with the crown are probably related to the setting works being faulty. The fact that the hour hand moves but not the minute hand could be related to this or you may be missing a few teeth somewhere. You need to open up the dial side at the very least. Some pics would be nice. Anilv

Soviet era Vostok

Here are some more pictures of the disassembly. I already removed the stone of the balance wheel for cleaning.

I should point out however, that rubies fluoresce under UV light. I have a strong LED UV flashlight at my desk for those occasions where a jewel is dropped on the desk but out of sight. It's saved me once already.

From the photos it's a Favourite Jewelling set and very nice it is. A staking set doesn't have the Lever and you use a hammer on the stakes. Tony Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

NO! No, WD-40! It would damage the watch like for life...It sticks and makes quite a mess. This one I posted comes exactly like that. On the other side it says: Optical Supply Inc., Western. Product #4110. Nothing saying what it contains...so if you are able to find out let us know. Cheers, Bob

Hi, By the way I mentioned how worn some parts on this watch are and thought some of you might like to see what the spring bars on a well loved and worn Rolex that hasn't been serviced in a while look like.