Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Too far gone for what?

It looks like it's structurally intact, so someone who loves pieces "with a story" might appreciate it.

If you want to try to restore it somehow, it's certainly possible, but would take enough effort that it's probably not worth it unless you just think it would be fun and have time to burn. Get some brass solder (like this https://www.riogrande.com/product/BrassWireSolder20Ga/132201?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8YCWrq6u3QIVQdbACh1gggWHEAQYAiABEgJmx_D_BwE) and go to town.

Posted

Wow, it looks like the surface of the moon.  By "too far gone" I assume you mean regarding refinishing and not just use.  Personally I would be a bit reluctant to try and buff our the pitting unless you measure the case thickness and depth of the worst pit mark.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, I hadn't even considered that. Definitely would not try to work out that pitting. I can't imagine there would be enough left that it would remain sound.

Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, Geo said:

That's a good reply qhartman, but not an easy technique for most.

Yeah, definitely not for the faint of heart. I've done similar work and it takes forever. If you're patient though, you can get good results. For those interested, here's a primer on the technique: http://jewelrymonk.com/2014/08/05/how-to-solder-and-fill-a-pit/
It would be a bit different here givens the size and quantity of the pits, but not too different. The biggest change would be for the big, wide pits I wouldn't do the wire technique, I'd just try to flux and flow solder into them en masse.

One thing I would add is to start with hard solder to do your first round, then go to medium solder, then to easy. That way each layer you add requires less heat and you don't melt out your previous work.

Edited by qhartman
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I was more thinking if i could build it up with silver solder and and then chrome it. But think it will be to much work. Remove all that pitting would make the lid to thin i think? 

Edited by rogart63
Posted
2 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

I was more thinking if i could build it up with silver solder and and then chrome it. But think it will be to much work. Remove all that pitting would make the lid to thin i think? 

Yeah, if you do anything, definitely go the additive route. But again, it will take a lot of work to make it look decent. It's really only something I would do if it were a labor of love sort of situation. A collector isn't likely to want something that has had that level of restoration work done on it. Assuming it doesn't feel bad on the wrist, I'd be inclined to leave it as-is.

Posted
50 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

It's a caseback from an old Longines. With heavy pitting. It's brass i think that is chromed.

 1505518327_hFSobyN1.thumb.jpg.d8a89b1038b04664018a453ee1c00ef6.jpg

    the plate might be nickel - silver.  over brass. still it is a big job, but if you are snowed in and have the material.   why not?

Posted

Movement and the other case looks pretty good? But as you say it would probably to much work. But would be cool if i could fix it? 119212062_NldWq3m1.thumb.jpg.e735b9375da674f7684ac6f7db17e440.jpg

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It might be a good idea to clear out all your browser caches (this should include any DNS caching). I might also be inclined to recommend Roy from the IT crowd’s answer to everything - Have you tried turning it off and then on again? 🙂 But seriously - sometimes a phone reboot can help. If problem persists then you can then know that its an upstream issue rather than your device.
    • Hi, I'm Marcel (51) from The Netherlands. I recently started my first vintage watch project. Before that I mainly worked on the necessary basic knowledge with the help of videos, forums, such as WatchRepairTalk, and other online information. So today the step to also become active on WRT. I hope to learn a lot from you. Best regards, Marcel
    • Hello and welcome to the forum, the best path to take is to get some medium priced tools , look at Cousins UK . They are a material house and are open to all. There medium priced screwdrivers are middle of the road and wil if looked fore serve you well into the foture I have added a little reading for you to help.  TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf Watch_tools_tipps.pdf
    • After another long hiatus (while waiting for truing calipers to arrive), I’ve made some more progress. TRUING IN THE FLAT I was able to use the calipers I purchased to true the wheel in the flat. There’s still a very slight eccentricity in the round, but I’m going to leave it as is. It doesn’t wobble any more and I’m happy with that. Thanks for the tool recommendation @mbwatch. It worked well, though I must say it takes a delicate touch to get the balance between the calipers. Also, my calipers effectively have four different variations based on the orientation of the arms (2 sides, 2 orientations each). Some are more tapered than others, though to what end, I can’t quite tell. My first thought was that flipping them over yields arms that can be used for poising. They are K&D horizontal calipers, btw. OSCILLATION TEST @nevenbekriev @JohnR725 After truing the wheel in the flat, I carefully remounted the hairspring and did your oscillation test. Balance wheel mounted to balance cock, no pallet fork, rotate balance wheel 180 degrees, let it go, and time+count the oscillations. Results as follows for dial down orientation: Duration: 1m 15sec (to full stop) # of oscillations: About 125, though the amplitude of the oscillations decreased significantly, as one might expect I should redo the test in at least two other orientations…Forgot to do that. 🙂  In general, it’s safe to say this watch has a pretty low amplitude, likely for a variety of reasons. I haven’t oiled the balance jewels FWIW…I should probably do that, but I really don’t want to keep disassembling and reassembling the balance. Is it possible to oil those jewels (top and bottom) by just removing the capstones and putting in a tiny amount of oil, with balance in place? I can see how having the pivot in the jewel hole could change how capillary action works, and thus might pull more oil in than desired. However, those capillary forces will be in effect anyway once the balance is inserted. PRACTICE MOVEMENTS @JohnR725 I agree with your sentiment about using practice movements wholeheartedly, and I’ve done that to some degree. The watch I’m currently repairing is for a friend, and she was willing to have me treat it as a “learn-by-doing experience.” With that said,, I probably should have purchased a few more “beaters” before getting to something where I don’t want to muck things up. I’ve still got a couple of those on the bench that I used as donors, and I’ll try to rehabilitate them.
    • Hi, this is the first place I found when looking for advice so I hope someone could advise me.  Im completely new to touching watches but I’ve always wondered how they work.  I’ve bought a cheap movement, an ETA replica to take apart and rebuild.  Im thinking I’ll need some screwdrivers, tweezers, movement holder and a loop? My goal is just to have a go first and see if I enjoy it enough before buying more tools.  Do I buy cheap tools for now and get better quality tools later if I enjoy it like I think I will? or will the cheap tools be a pain and take some of the fun out of it?  With quality tools being relatively expensive I’m unsure what to buy.    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...