Stoopid Question Re Tax & Duty

[ro63rto]

Is he a German, living in Zagreb and selling stuff through a buddy in Ireland? It's not unknown for such partnerships to take place on eBay. I know an eBay dealer in Guildford who's Greek but who sells Favre-Leuba watches which have obviously been done up and "restored" in India to be sold over here! It's a kind of false selling provenance. He's probably sent a job lot of watches from Zagreb to Ireland, where his mate sells them on eBay. Hence the postage differential...

You got it in one.

Just pealed off my address before binning the envelope and there is tge Croatian post label.

Ship to M. Schlensok. Works for a well known antivirus company in Cork.

[Geo]

This has got me annoyed, I just can't stand deception and lies!

[ro63rto]

Minute hand is loose. Just spins around when you tilt the watch.

Worth trying to have a go myself (paid £18) or shall I get ebay involved?

[Geo]

If it was sold as a going watch and there were no issues highlighted, you should really return it and get your money back. On the other hand, it wasn't a lot of money and if it is only the hand needed re-seated, then I would probably keep it. It may be a simple fix and maybe not.

If you are going to take it up with EBay, do it sooner than later!

[WillFly]

My advice would be to either (1) fix it up and keep it or, (2) sell it on and cut your losses. Depends on how badly you want the watch - and it might be worth a tinker for the experience.

 

eBay disputes are prolonged and without guarantee of success though, these days, the buyer has a better chance. All disputes start with eBay asking you to try and resolve the matter with the seller. The seller then gets the chance to respond, then you can respond back, and so on. Eventually, after about 21 days, if nothing has been resolved with the dialogue, then someone from eBay will pronounce and give a verdict.

 

It's a wearisome business - hence my advice at the top of this post. If was serious money, then it might be worth prolonging the agony. For £18? Well...

Edited October 24, 2014 by WillFly

[bobm12]

I totally agree with Will, the time and aggravation is not worth it. I'm also rattled by the dishonesty of the seller.

 

On a brighter side, this could be a watch worth much more if used as a learning watch, i.e. fixing it and restoring it to as much an original condition as possible. Remember that good useful knowledge has no price. Therefore while it actually involved little money you can turn around and make any single penny count gaining a wealth of knowledge in return.

 

As it is, it is quite a pretty watch -- I normally don't feel too hot about square-ish watches but this for me would be a keeper forever - and being Seiko, as indicated before: excellent quality and abundance of parts.

[ro63rto]

I have decided to keep it.

Having left suitable negative feedback, all be it limited to 96 characters, I am going to give it a go at resurrecting it but not until I buy my optivisor tomorrow [emoji6]

Having hit 45 this year, my vision has lost its edge and I now wear glasses for reading and closeup work.

What thread lock do I use on the stem/crown?

[bobm12]

Loctite 222 is the preferred one around here for low strength thread locker...

 

Something I found about your watch, Rob3rto:

 

HISTORY:

The Seiko 6309 series of diving watches is the third generation of Seiko’s (normally aspirated) professional/recreational diving watches (this does not include Seiko’s deep diving shrouded divers). The 6309 line of divers replaced the 6105 in 1976 and ran until 1988, when it was replaced by the 7002 line of divers. The 6309’s are largely an economizing and further modularization of the 6105 movement, which allowed for greater robustness, longetivity and ease of maintenance. The 6309’s (especially the second generation of them) introduced many design changes to Seiko divers that are with us to this day.

- The 6309 divers come in two case variations: an earlier “cushion-cased” variant produced from 1976 to 1988 and a later “slimed-down case” variant produced from 1982 to 1988. As you can see production of the first generation continued after the second generation was introduced, and overlapped the second generation models, though in reduced number.

 

These are the earlier versions of this watch series and are essentially the same watch. The 7040 designation denotes watches intended for the Japanese home market and the rest of the world, while the 7049 designation was assigned to those watches intended for export to North America.

6309’s use a form of Seiko’s workhorse 17 jewel 6300 series automatic caliber. The movement cannot be manually wound; is non-hacking; and has crown operated quickset day/date calendar mechanisms. For the common buyer, so long as the movement works and keeps good time, the most important things to check for are:

1) The movement has to look clean with no black, pitted or rusted parts. This is especially true of the main-barrel, which should have a shiny (not-polished) stainless steel color. A brass color coming through is often an indication of play in the main barrel. This is a common problem on heavily used 6309's. A brassy color on the outside of the movement can also be indicative of play in the bearing of the rotor.

2) The condition of the movement spacer and pressure spring. These tension/pressure springs are the first thing to rust when water is allowed to stay in the case. They are thin, and often turn to dust. These are long obsolete, and finding a good one is a chore not unlike trying to find a new crystal retainer.
 

Edited October 24, 2014 by bobm12

[ro63rto]

Loctite 222 is the preferred one around here for low strength thread locker...

Thanks. I'll order some now along with any other bits I need ie new hour/minute hands.

[bobm12]

You are welcome. Maybe this can help?

 

6309A.pdf

 

 

Also, the hands can be reused and refinished with a little sanding and reluming. If the minute hand has an enlarged hole, it can be pinned (reduced)...If you need to paint them, I recommend testors paint, they have one in "gold" enamel (not yellow but gold).

Edited October 24, 2014 by bobm12

[ro63rto]

You are welcome. Maybe this can help?

6309A.pdf

Also, the hands can be reused and refinished with a little sanding and reluming. If the minute hand has an enlarged hole, it can be pinned (reduced)...If you need to paint them, I recommend testors paint, they have one in "gold" enamel (not yellow but gold).

Thanks bob. Got that pdf printed up already while I waited for the watch.

Dont think I'll attempt to sand the hands. Reluming yes, no problem.

The rotor is in a bit of a state though.

[bobm12]

Yeah, does look as if it has been working hard and with some specs of dirt here and there. Maybe a full service is in order. Those are real strong movements and with a little love and care they will still last you for quite a while. Since the back is all metal, it is ok as long as you remove rust and whatnot you may find during servicing.

[ro63rto]

Don't know what to start first.

Bought an Accurist Depthmeter diver with a bit of water damage last month.

[bobm12]

Why don't you start with this one, parts are mostly available and it is a very common (and fairly simple) auto....

[ro63rto]

Why don't you start with this one, parts are mostly available and it is a very common (and fairly simple) auto....

Probably will. I really like the look of it.

It's my first auto since I gave my brother the 7019-5000 I bought a few months back.