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Old Elgin Losing Time


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You need to post pictures from a timegrapher or equivalent application,  If it could be possible that some application could read your files or even interpret from playback, but that would never be good as a first person observation.

Otherwise all you could read here are generic statements like "clean and service the movement" - which in fact should certainly be done, or "something is touching and ringing", again you will not know what until the mov.r is taken apart, cleaned, inspected and lubricated by a competent person.

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If you have been looking after your watch, I would say a good service. It is quite old and the mainspring could be tired, therefore the movement will not work on poor power this its self would cause the watch to keep poor time.

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Did you make the movement spacer yourself with a 3-d printer? How has it held up with regards to the material.

I've been thinking about getting into this but I've heard the cheaper DIY material is not stable.. ie degrades.

Anilv

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Thanks guys,

JDM- I don't have a timegrapher, I do this for fun. It is interesting though that your answer is similar to one I received on Timezone also in the watchmaking and repair forum. If I was working on an antique car and posted a question on a forum I would get a ton of answers and opinions of how to fix something, but in watches the answer is almost always the same, go to a watchmaker or seek a "competent person". I am involved with watches because I enjoy it, of course I could just pay someone to do it for me but then it's not much of a hobby is it?

oldhippy- Thanks, I have ordered a new mainspring but because the sound almost sounded like a pinging I was hoping that might be familiar to someone in regards of where the problem might lie. I do own an L&R cleaning machine but have not cleaned or oiled the watch for a year. It was just that the sound sounded unique. I'll see what happens when I put in the new main spring. Thanks

 

Anilv- Yes, I 3d printed the movement holder. The hard part was making a new stem that would lock in as the original watch was spring loaded to wind or change the time.

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11 minutes ago, rauld said:

JDM- I don't have a timegrapher, I do this for fun. It is interesting though that your answer is similar to one I received on Timezone also in the watchmaking and repair forum. If I was working on an antique car and posted a question on a forum I would get a ton of answers and opinions of how to fix something, but in watches the answer is almost always the same, go to a watchmaker or seek a "competent person". I am involved with watches because I enjoy it, of course I could just pay someone to do it for me but then it's not much of a hobby is it?

Most of us here do this for fun. A timegrapher is an essential tool, fortunately it's not expensive neither in physical or application form, much cheaper than a vintage cleaning machine, but much more useful.
Not knowing your experience and skills I suggested that you bring it to a competent person to avoid the possibility of ruining something that seems you care for. Of course if you know how to work on a movement yourself that's even better. I also love working on cars and motorbikes (was a professional when younger) but found that watch work is much more difficult than anything else, at least under the manual dexterity aspect.

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JDM- Sorry, I wasn't trying to be difficult but there is something about watchmakers, ask for golf advice- a million answers, home repair- too many opinions. Go on a forum for watch repair and the answer usually is "take it to a watchmaker". A friend of mine actually is a watchmaker for Audemars Piguet and he doesn't work on anything old, he thinks they are "too finicky", in my opinion he is more of a technician, he just replaces components or parts, he doesn't really repair anything. If I didn't have a family to support I would consider going to Horology school just because I like it.

I certainly agree that working on a watch movement is a unique skill, maybe I'll think about buying a timegrapher.

Thanks, Rauld

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/6/2018 at 11:23 PM, rauld said:

JDM- Sorry, I wasn't trying to be difficult but there is something about watchmakers, ask for golf advice- a million answers, home repair- too many opinions. Go on a forum for watch repair and the answer usually is "take it to a watchmaker". A friend of mine actually is a watchmaker for Audemars Piguet and he doesn't work on anything old, he thinks they are "too finicky", in my opinion he is more of a technician, he just replaces components or parts, he doesn't really repair anything. If I didn't have a family to support I would consider going to Horology school just because I like it.

I certainly agree that working on a watch movement is a unique skill, maybe I'll think about buying a timegrapher.

Thanks, Rauld

Hi Rauld, This is an excellent forum and I agree that there is little help outside of it these days. The "trade" tries hard to keep repairs and knowledge for themselves and can be even rude to amateur hobbyists and Jobbers like myself at times. I received a lot of part time training as a young lad many years ago from a Vacheron trained watchmaker friend and it has stood me in good stead for the small amount of repairs that I carry out. This, WRT, and de Carles and Fried`s books for reference is the way I go. Best regards, Mike. (ecodec) 

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    • Learned a new thing today! 🤓 Looked this up and found this informative document: Watkins-MainspringGauges.pdf
    • Correct one dip is expensive when the chemical is purchased as " one dip " which is why it is mostly reserved for these two small parts as far as information tells us it is mostly tetrachloroethylene. I use it bought as perchloroethyl used in dry cleaning processes, i cant say I'm overimpressed with it though it appears to me to be shellac safe. What may be a better solution for hairsprings is a high lab grade of pure benzine.  IPA is mostly used as a rinse and water displacer and yes it does have the potential to dissolve shellac, personally i would not buy anything that has significant water dilution so 99.9% IPA is the way to go. And lastly the part you are cleaning dictates your choice of cleaning brush, delicate parts like a hairspring requires the finest artist's brush you can find. Plates and bridges can take a little more scrubbing, but always check to make sure the surface is being unharmed. And dont forget a stick of tip benzine soaked correctly shaped pegwood is your mate set up for cleaning dirty jewels and removing stubborn dried up lubrication. 
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Den / Dennison is a unit measurement of size this is actually a mainspring gauge . I haven't heard of a pivot been measured in Dennison before.  Though the small thickness gauge is  usually supplied with a Jacot tool and is more accurately known as a pivot destroyer.
    • Could it be an abbreviation for Denier? "Denier (/ˈdɛniər/) or den (abbreviated D), a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, is the mass in grams per 9,000 metres of the fiber. The denier is based on a natural reference: a single strand of silk is approximately one denier; a 9,000-metre strand of silk weighs about one gram." The pivot gauge looks interesting, however I wouldn't trust myself to drive a pivot into a wedge incase it jams and gets damaged/snaps trying to get it free. More a comment on my ability and incompetence than the quality or design of the tool 🤣
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